Rust, preventing and cleaning

[Sir Martyn]

Welcome, sir.  No shame in learning, for we all start somewhere - Lord knows I have a long way to go myself

[Sir James A]

Thanks for the welcome. I'll keep my armour type hidden for now, lest I be chased, tarred and feathered...

I don't think the armour is sealed, but I may be wrong.

Also on my todo list is find a way to replace some of the leather bits which are held in by what looks like brass rivets...

M.

Stainless??

It's stainless!!!

Break out the pitch forks!!!!!!

Just kidding ... no problems with stainless. I have some myself.

Mirror polish means you can't use coarse abrasives or it will mess with the finish. Try chemicals first, and if that fails, try using a similar/identical grit to what it was polished with.

[Ian]

If you need to use a coarse abrasive for stubborn rust on mirror-finished armor you need to remove the rust and then return the armor to a mirror finish using the same procedure that got it there in the first place, that is using finer and finer grits until finally using a polishing compound to match the finish.

Because I have absolutely 0 desire to ever go through that much work to clean my armor I shy away from anything with a mirror finish

Your best bet is to prevent rust in the first place by keeping your armor oiled or waxed.  I prefer the use of Breakfree CLP firearm cleaner, lubricant, and protection (hence the CLP ) It forms a film on the surface of the armor and has always prevented surface rust from forming even after long-term storage with no re-application.

When I wear my armor for long periods (as I did this past weekend), it got some dirt and some minor rust spots on the surface.  I use gray scotch-brite pads with CLP to remove it and then wipe it clean with a sock or rag, and the oil will stay on there and then I'm done until the next armor-wearing marathon.

If you're not really attached to a mirror-finish, I would recommend biting the bullet and removing the finish with a gray or green scotch-bride pad and bringing your armor to a satin finish so you don't have to worry as much since every time you remove rust you'll  match the finish perfectly.

[Spinal]

Thanks - will try to find some of that CLP... found similar ones on eBay, but not that same brand. Where do you get yours from?

[Sir James A]

Amazon or gun stores should have it

[Spinal]

I think it may be an American thing... gun stores here are quite rare (buying a gun in the UK is almost impossible, you need to get a police test, join a club and shoot (without your own gun) for at least a year (going every month), and only then can you apply for a firearms certificate (with which you can't buy a pistol, or most full-bore rifles anyhow).

Found someone who sells in the UK, charges a fortune (120ml for £25 - about $35/$40) but it's on it's way

I'll report progress!
M

[Ian]

Breakfree CLP is technically now owned by the company SafariLand which makes holsters and other tactical equipment, so you may see it under that name as well.

[Sir Wolf]

can farmers own firearms in england then?

[Spinal]

Only shotguns; but they need to follow a whole set of rules, like owning the land (and still go through all the same controls).

[LionPride32]

I have a Robin Hood film King Richard sword by Windlass, carbon steele blade. It seems to be showing slightly darker patches on the blade here and there but bo actual rust _ what should I use? WD-40??

[Ian]

I have a Robin Hood film King Richard sword by Windlass, carbon steele blade. It seems to be showing slightly darker patches on the blade here and there but bo actual rust _ what should I use? WD-40??

Wd40 evaporates too fast. Use an oil like Break-Free CLP and a scotch brite pad to remove the spot, then apply a thin layer of CLP and leave it on like you would a firearm.

[Sir Edward]

WD40 is great for cleaning the surfaces, but it does evaporate quite quickly. If you ever use soap-water or something like that to get the oils off the steel, WD40 is what you want to use for getting moisture out of the grain of the steel. The "WD" stands for "Water Displacement". 

But for sealing it against moisture in the air, Breakfree CLP is fantastic. People have had good luck with Turtle Wax and similar other sealants as well.

[Sir James A]

^ what Sir Ian and Sir Edward said. I've used "RemOil" since it's easy to find in the firearms section at Walmart. Breakfree CLP can be found in regular gun stores, but I haven't seen it in any Walmarts yet.

[Sir Douglas]

Has anyone ever tried Eagle One wax as a sealant? I've been using the spray-on kind on my armor and it seems to work really well.

[Sir James A]

I've used a paste wax, but it's tough to get cleaned off around/under straps and articulation. It protected really well when handling - I'd say better than oil - but at the expense of it being more difficult to strip off and re-seal when needed. It also gives more of a "dull" appearance than the "shine" oil gives it.