Rust, preventing and cleaning

[Sir William]

Silvanus, I was meaning the younger squires but if you are willing, I have helms and breastplates (and other plate bits) that require more attention than I'm giving them.  lol

[Sir Ulrich]

Does anyone know how to clean surface rust off of maille? I honestly have not a clue how to, I been using a wire brush to clean it bit by bit but it's neither stimulating nor that effective. This is all thanks to my maille chausses rusting after I cleaned the oil off of them and I cleaned them in only an HOUR and they got all rusty which really POed me. I was considering throwing them in the dryer as they're only about 5-6 pounds each but I tried that for about 20 minutes to no avail. I am NOT using harsh chemicals as I'm not making the same mistake of getting it wet again. I want to to use an abrasive method to clean it off. I was considering getting sacks of sand and tossing them around as they're not as heavy as a hauberk which means it would probably be easier but I really need help here I dont want to end up with pitting corrosion and my maile rusting away.

[Sir Wolf]

they wont rust away. it takes years for metal to do that. my forth armoury mail turned completely orange once with rust from camping and fighting in the rain. i put it in a sack of sand and moved it around for a while. i kept it in there and moved it each day. i think i even dumped the sand and put in new sand. then i brushed it off, sprayed it with oil lightly and let it hang. i may have even wiped down the oil some. then i kept it in a burlap sack. i moved it around every once in a while just to clean it. that's what mail does, it self cleans as it is abrasive to itself. it will no longer stay shiny. it may even turn dark. you will be fine.

[Sir Ulrich]

I tumbled mine in a dryer which got rid of most the rust. Has a bit of a patina on it now and looks rather genuine and not so machine made. I actually prefer it with the patina on it. Wont work for my hauberk though cause thats like 25 pounds at least, not gonna risk breaking the dryer for that, but once it's tailored it probably should weigh less.

[Sir Martyn]

Good tips all. 

Some of my European friends had also recorded the possible use of olive oil as another natural metal preservative.  I haven't tried it (using Ballistol for the moment, non-toxic & the application/smell is more tolerable indoors than WD40) saying when it dries it also leaves a protective layer on the armor, etc.  Still need to try it out.

[Sir Nate]

armor for me is an easy clean, but my sword is a challenge. the only thing that does clean it are these little packages from the hardware store, but no other polish or anything. It seems a black substance like a stain (not rust) has taken affect on my sword. I think its dried grease.

[Sir Wolf]

armour and swords are easy..... sigh, you should try cleaning a rifle after it has been in the beach sand a salt water (DDay ohio battle this past weekend ahhhhh) lol

[Sir Edward]

Yeah, black discoloration is just corrosion as well. It has to be polished out, and takes a little more "elbow grease" so to speak. Depending on the finish of your sword, any abrasives may alter the appearance, so you have to be careful.

With my Albions, those dark spots come right out with a grey (fine-grained) scotchbrite pad and some oil and/or rust remover. But Albion does their finishing with those same scotchbrites, so it doesn't alter the appearance to use them.

[Sir William]

I use Flitz from Windlass for my plate bits and swords; I've not had any issues with my hauberk yet though...it is galvanized though, I'm sure that's why.  I've even worn it out in the rain with no ill effects.  For regular mild steel, I'd do as Sir Wolf suggested- barrel roll w/sand and vinegar, then oil it...and store it somewhere above the ground and out of direct sunlight.  If you store it in a place that isn't climate controlled, expect to see rust return at some point.

[Sir Nate]

Hey my sword has gotten a bit rusty, any tips on how to remove it. I recently cleaned it and put oil on it. i just used a sponge with dish soap to get most of the dirt off, then I rewet it and dried it off, then added a thin layer of olive oil. I don't have any metal polish yet, but Ive been meaning to have my sword taken to a guy that can take away the rust and rethread the pommel, which is a screw on, and possibly sharpen the sword.
There is a black rust on the sword do you know how to get that out? and how to clean leather?

[Sir Martyn]

Sir Nate - for the leather I would use saddle soap and then skin lotion is very good at keeping it supple.  The saddle soap - and mink oil as well - have the added benefit of water proofing it. 

I must admit that I fear what effect the traditional sand barrel roll armor cleaning has on the leather bits...

Re: the sword others here may know better, but it seems to me and what I've sen on my won swords & armor is that you have to do the best you can at first removing whatever rust is present.  if lest, even below a non-corrosive, protective layer of something else it can continue to cause trouble.  Once you've sufficiently cleaned it only then can you use a coat of something else - WD40 or oil, etc - to keep the air/moisture away from metal.

After some serious struggles with my harness with rust which collected during its trip via DHL from Germany, I used Johnson's wax to coat it which I hope will preserve it for a bit before I'll have time to give it another thorough cleaning and perhaps repaint the interior surfaces as well.

[Sir James A]

Regarding sand in a barrel cleaning, I've only seen it mentioned with mail, so leather should be non-existant; I'd wager the surviving bits that have leather straps were either removed and re-sewn, or replaced as needed when cleaning.

[Spinal]

Hello,
new here - so go easy on me

I found this site through another thread on this subject (this one if anyone cares: http://modernchivalry.org/forum/index.php/topic,666.15.html ) as I have some surface rust on my armour.

Was planning to try brillo paste, followed by some motorcycle wax to prevent the rust from re-forming. My "issue" (which I don't think you have, but correct me if I'm wrong) is that the mirror finish on the armour I have prevents me from using steel wool or similar coarse abrasives.

Anyhow - that was me introducing myself (sort of), saying hi, and posting my tuppence worth!

M.

[Sir Wolf]

welcome!

what type of armour? some armour made has a "sealer" on the metal that is a pain in the but. cause it starts to rust under the sealer and then you have to remove ALL of the sealer before you can get to the rust.

[Spinal]

Thanks for the welcome. I'll keep my armour type hidden for now, lest I be chased, tarred and feathered...

I don't think the armour is sealed, but I may be wrong.

Also on my todo list is find a way to replace some of the leather bits which are held in by what looks like brass rivets...

M.