Gambeson Questions

[Sir Patrick]

I'm getting ready to start making my gambeson and I have a few questions (I'm shooting for a 1300-1330 time frame).  As far as sleeves, which has the most mobility:  lace-on/removable, open armpit, or sewn all around?  Are deeply scooped arm holes like those used by Revival necessary for proper mobility, and would they even be used at that point in time?  Would the elbow be tailored at this point in history?  As far as closures, is a slip on gambeson better under maille than one with buckles/straps, or ties?  Is mid-thigh an appropriate length for this era, or are they creeping up a bit?

[Sir Matthew]

The gambeson I am making is geared a little more toward the 1400s, but I am definitely not sewing the arms all the way around. I have not decided if I am doing tie on or not, kinda leaning toward sewn on, though. My light padded armor has ties for attatching the arms, but I have not made the arms. The ties are set up for one at the top of the shoulder and two front and back on the shoulder, leaving the armpit open for mobility and to help heat escape. I think that the heavey padded armor I am making this season will feature sewn on arms with the armpit left open as well, again for ease of movement and to help with heat release. The gambeson is likely going to tie up both sides, though if I get ambitious I may sew one side shut and just tie on the other. I am not sure if that is a period design though. My heavey padded armor will be sewn shut on the sides but have ties or maybe hook and eye closures on the front. I like the hook and eye design, but then I need to sew on a flap to fold over and cover that, so I may not do that as that is more work and sewing that I may pressed for time to finish. My gambeson is going to be just below the waist in length, I am not sure how long I am going to make the heavey padded armor, probably the same length.

[Sir Patrick]

Ahh, heat escape!  Hadn't even factored that in as a reason for open pits.  Was going to use linen with cotton batting for breathablity, so leaving the underam open will only help.

[Sir Wolf]

definitely sewn. correctly tailored gambeson will allow for perfect arm movement. also as to the open armpit, why would you want to leave that open to an attack? one stab there and it's game over! hehehe

make your gambeson out of 100% linen flax (5.1 or 5.3) from http://www.fabrics-store.com/  i made mine 4 layers thick with some padding in the chest and shoulder area. course mine is more of a 15th century arming jacket, but I plan to make my 14th century the same way only longer cut and more inset shoulder areas

[Sir Patrick]

Excellent point, Sir Wolf!  I guess I'll just have to roast.   

[Sir Wolf]

roast hah! not. my linen one wicks away any sweat and keeps me really cool. real fibers like linen and wool act differently in heat than cotton, poly and other un natural fibers. i've been out in 90 degree heat in linen and wool all day and while hot, never over heated

[Sir Patrick]

Point taken, Sir Wolf.  I'll make mine the same way and avoid ye olde heatstroke 

[Sir William]

Avoiding heatstroke is paramount!  I look forward to seeing this new gambeson, Red Knight.

[Sir James A]

roast hah! not. my linen one wicks away any sweat and keeps me really cool. real fibers like linen and wool act differently in heat than cotton, poly and other un natural fibers. i've been out in 90 degree heat in linen and wool all day and while hot, never over heated

This is the same idea behind some of the sports clothing that wicks away sweat in modern days. There is a lot to be said for proper material vs extra holes.

[Sir Matthew]

I have never had a problem with mine in the heat either. The padded armor I wore this year had 8 layers of cotton quilt batting and I never felt overly hot. The original gambeson I made and wore under my heavy armor had a cotton batting in it too and I never really got overheated in that. That sort of acted like a sponge, soaking up my sweat and keeping at a constant body temperature. I wouldn't say I was cool, but I was also not overly hot. The extra holes were my idea and will not really be incorporated in the new one, except at the armpits. It's more of a concern for movement than heat, although I still think it will help there. Also, I am concerned that my sewing skills are just not up to sewing there where extra stress will be placed on the stitches from lifting and moving my arms so I'm going to save me the aggrevation of having to make repairs to ripped out stitching.

[Sir Patrick]

Sir Wolf, do you have any pics?  What pattern did you use, or did you just make it up?  Any mobility issues with the arms?

[Sir Wolf]

much later than you want but same idea. this is my arming jacket and would make my gambeson the same way just longer (and a tad bigger in the tummy) although now it may fit again.

i used my doublet pattern I have. and put gussets in the arm pits, this is key along with insetting the arm properly to allow the fabric to move.

[Sir Patrick]

Thanks!

[Sir William]

I just got a sudden urge to watch Robin Hood: Men in Tights! 

All kidding aside, I think its pretty awesome you made your own arming coat, Sir Wolf.  Your friend...he make his?

[Sir Wolf]

naa i can't take credit for it, my mom made it. i did some of the quilting. i am unsure who made Jeff's, he or Gwen from Historic Enterprises did.