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Historical Robin Hood kit

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Don Jorge:
Might want to check this out...

http://www.3riversarchery.com/product.asp?i=8550-2&gclid=CjkKEQjwrLSdBRDYvIL0soO4vo0BEiQABALkqaQHAqXQnr-bWxfIXmPEojqEcg8qVpi_RlYMzPTKNVDw_wcB

Sir Ulrich:
I would get a yew bow but may just go for a laminated bow instead due to yew ones apparently being hard to find. Still need at least a dozen arrows too they're expensive though prolly most the money being the hand forged heads. After I get the bow it will basically be complete to do this as I got everything else. Gonna go with a low poundage though cause theres no way I can draw back a historical draw weight, and archers were typically the most buff soldiers in the army too due to the draw weights being so heavy, right to the point of their arms being deformed from it as well. I probably will take a while looking for a bow though cause I wish to choose a historical design and choose wisely though I will be avoiding bamboo or other non historical designs. I assume I would need a bow stringer and a bag to store the bow in for travel along with an arrow bag rather than a quiver.

Lord Dane:
Stay away from red oak. Maybe it was my strength but I snapped it in two trying to draw. Then I realized it had no backing or solid wood core. Stay away from painted staves so you can check the wood type and quality.

Sir Wolf:
yew is the best, then is it white ash? do NOT get red oak, its open pours will tend to break. yew is actually bad for eastern us climate. too humid will make the bow warp and lose it's shape.

while not in use de-string your bow.

no arrow rests or leather hand guards should be on your bow. horn tips on for certain time frames.

Ian:
Also the location the yew tree grew in matters.  The colder the climate the tree grew in, the tighter the growth rings will be.  LBC has a ton of yew longbows, they're all kept unstrung when not at shows as far as I know.

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