Ulrich, when it comes to arming clothes, given your size and dimensions, you are much better going with a custom gambeson. Cheaper does not equal better- spend your budget wisely and you'll be happier overall. Take it from someone who has spent thousands of dollars on weapons, armor and garments- I've resold over 90% of what I've gotten over the years simply because the fit, finish, quality or whatever else can be off, was off. Going custom is cheaper but think of it like this:
You can spend $300 on a custom gambeson, or you can spend $300 on three different off the rack gambesons, only to find that the materials and/or workmanship are shoddy, is not as advertised, does not fit, only to have to sell them at a reduced price thereby taking money out of your pocket and finding yourself in the exact same boat you were in before you started. Can't tell you how many times that's happened to me.
Unless you're going to take the field and actually fight, you need not go full-custom, or worry about synthetic materials (unless you're angling for Living History accuracy) - in that case there are options. Morgana Collection would be a good choice as it would be custom, but not as expensive as say a Jessica Fuhlen gambeson, like the one Ian had made.
I have an IceFalcon gambeson, paid $150 for it when it was on sale (he does that from time to time, Andre does - here's a link to his site.
http://store.fastcommerce.com/render.cz?method=searchProducts&store=icefalcon&keywords=arming%20cotte&btn_search=The 'light arming cotte' might be exactly what you need.
