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New helm?

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Sir James A:
I wouldn't take a 16 gauge helm as combat ready, or a kettle helm in general, unless you're using a separate bargrill or some kind of extra protection. The single-piece kettle helms will get quite thin being dished out, vs the 4-panels which don't need to be dished/raised much. I'd settle for no less than 14 gauge for a combat helm, or 12 gauge if I could get it. You're talking head protection, IMO, it's better to overengineer than suffer serious injury. However ... I'd get a separate, lightweight helm, 16 or 18 gauge, for faire / non-combat wearing.

Sir Wolf:
depends on what sorta combat.  sca no. living history/ live steel yes. BOTN no etc. :)

Sir William:

--- Quote from: James Anderson III on 2012-06-11, 21:58:59 ---I wouldn't take a 16 gauge helm as combat ready, or a kettle helm in general, unless you're using a separate bargrill or some kind of extra protection. The single-piece kettle helms will get quite thin being dished out, vs the 4-panels which don't need to be dished/raised much. I'd settle for no less than 14 gauge for a combat helm, or 12 gauge if I could get it. You're talking head protection, IMO, it's better to overengineer than suffer serious injury. However ... I'd get a separate, lightweight helm, 16 or 18 gauge, for faire / non-combat wearing.

--- End quote ---

I'm told that spring steel can be made in lighter gauges and still be as strong as cold-rolled mild in heavy gauge; even better would be for it to be tempered as that gives it a hardness unparalleled- is that not so?  Of course, such things would drive up the cost considerably and not all armorers work with that medium.

Ian:

--- Quote from: Sir William on 2012-06-12, 16:36:56 --- I'm told that spring steel can be made in lighter gauges and still be as strong as cold-rolled mild in heavy gauge; even better would be for it to be tempered as that gives it a hardness unparalleled- is that not so?  Of course, such things would drive up the cost considerably and not all armorers work with that medium.

--- End quote ---

Typically armorer's that work in spring steel will harden and temper your armor.  Mild steel by definition cannot be heat treated / tempered.  It can be work hardened a little bit, but not like quality spring steel.  And yes, spring can be made in much lighter gauge and be stronger than a corresponding heavier gauge mild steel.  When I upgraded to hardened spring steel I never looked back.

It's a significant weight difference, and a significant strength increase.  Spring steel will not dent like mild steel unless you set it on the ground and just went to town with a sledge hammer.  It is however, considerably more expensive than mild steels.  If you don't mind the price increase, it's worth every penny.  Just realize that if you invest in spring steel armor, it better fit right, because once it's hardened, you're not going to reshape it with a hammer.

Sir James A:

--- Quote from: Sir William on 2012-06-12, 16:36:56 ---
--- Quote from: James Anderson III on 2012-06-11, 21:58:59 ---I wouldn't take a 16 gauge helm as combat ready, or a kettle helm in general, unless you're using a separate bargrill or some kind of extra protection. The single-piece kettle helms will get quite thin being dished out, vs the 4-panels which don't need to be dished/raised much. I'd settle for no less than 14 gauge for a combat helm, or 12 gauge if I could get it. You're talking head protection, IMO, it's better to overengineer than suffer serious injury. However ... I'd get a separate, lightweight helm, 16 or 18 gauge, for faire / non-combat wearing.

--- End quote ---

I'm told that spring steel can be made in lighter gauges and still be as strong as cold-rolled mild in heavy gauge; even better would be for it to be tempered as that gives it a hardness unparalleled- is that not so?  Of course, such things would drive up the cost considerably and not all armorers work with that medium.

--- End quote ---

Ian covered it very well. In short, it's considerably more expensive, and a lot harder to find - but if you can find and afford it, the only thing better than spring steel is spring stainless steel - I only know of one shop who works with it at the moment.

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