What I want to do

[Sir Ulrich]

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m7niAprU8z4[/youtube]
Would be nice to go to England to do that. Just need the outfit for it.

[Joshua Santana]

Oh yes Sir Ulrich, I can easily see you doing this! 

[Sir William]

Sir Ulrich...I am with you, I would love to be a part of that...and I have the kit already!  My wife and I plan on making a trip to Europe...if not next year, the following but it will be within the next 3.  I want to do it before I get too old to, you know?

[Sir Wolf]

http://www.historiclife.com/Events/Norman/UKHastings2006.htm james barker made it over there in 2006.

we used to have a hastings battle every oct at marietta. now i think its at havre de grace. but its not as big. heres some old pics http://www.historiclife.com/Events/Norman.htm

[Sir William]

Havre de Grace is only a couple hours from me!

[Sir Ulrich]

Yeah, what would be cool is if a few of us can all go together and do this as a team or whatever. I do plan to go to England probably next year. Just need some Norman looking clothing, and probably will have to trim my hauberk when it arrives as well as get a conical helm and kite shield. Either way I wouldn't mind doing this, fighting as a Norman is a really big thing for me as I am of Norman descent myself on both sides of my family.

[Sir Wolf]

don't forget to shave your head too it's always a big hit with my wife when i do this hehehehe

let me know if you want a period kit and i'll let you know what you need. norman reenactment is prob the longest reenactment i've done.

[Sir Ulrich]

Sure, would like to know what I need for a Norman kit. Would help me quite a bit.

[Sir Wolf]

here is an old old run down. i dont even think this was a finished format. i think we had things down even more so than these.

NoVA Norman 11th Century Norman Kit Standards
Buying Your Gear

You can buy some of the items on our basics list but we want you to contact us before buying anything. Even the most credible vendors out there sell items we don’t approve of for use in the group. If you contact us, we can help you sort through vendors, the items they sell and the options they offer, and get you the gear to get you started with us.
Making Your Gear:
We have patterns to make all these items for those going that route and we have specifics you need to know for buying so please contact us with your questions.
Before starting any project, confer with the group. There's nothing worse than putting 50 hours into the construction of a new garment only to find out that it's not appropriate for what we portray or spending money on an item that the group has decided not to allow. Better to be safe than sorry. Check first!
In order to prevent new members from making the mistake of dropping a whole lot of cash on an impression they may decide they don't want to pursue, we require perspective members to join us as low-ranking commoners for one year as laid out in our membership terms. The clothing requirements are easier to make, cheaper to buy, and the roles are simple to understand and portray, even for someone completely new to living history.
Construction Standards
•   All visible stitching (flat felling, topstitching, etc.) shall be done by hand.
•   Stitching that is not visible (inner seams) may be done by machine.
•   Eyelets should be done by hand.
•   Linings, when used, should be of natural or bleached linen.
Fabric Standards
Your wardrobe should be of wool or linen, as those were the predominant fabrics in use for our time and place. However, wool and linen should not be used interchangeably. The clothing section will let you know what material is required for a garment.
•   Wool: Tabby (plain) weave is and was the most common weave available up until the 10th century. Twill weave was the most common weave available in the 10th century to the 13th century. A 3-shed (Also known as a 2.1 or a 2 in 1) weave twill was the most common but hosen seemed to be four-shed twills (Also known as a 2.2 or a 2 in 2). 4-shed twills have great stretch on the bias and make them ideal for hosen.
•   Linen: In tabby weaves. In natural or white only. When buying white linen make sure you get “bleached linen” and not what is call “optic white” or “Irish white linen”. Optic white has a bluish tint and Irish linen has a reddish tint under natural light. Bleached has a slightly yellowish tint.
•   Silks: Not to be used by members of this group.
•   Cotton: Cotton fabric should NOT be used under any circumstance.
Modern Terms for Wool and What not to Buy:

What to look for:

•   Worsted: Worsted is a smoothed finished wool that will not full well. Worsted is not as water resistant as fulled wools.
•   Twill: Twill wools are a fabric with a twill weave, namely a textile weave in which the filling threads pass over one and under two or more warp threads to give an appearance of diagonal lines.
•   Wool Flannel: Almost always wool flannels are four-shed (two in two or 2.2) twills. Wool Flannel makes nice hosen.
•   Melton: Melton can be a tabby or twill. Often is a blend so be sure you get 100% wool. Typically it is heavy weight wool so keep that in mind when planning an outfit.
•   Coat Wool: Coat wool is very heavy weight wool in a tabby weave.
•   Rug Wool: Rug wool is a cheap tabby weave. It typically has a very nappy finish and is not so pretty but you can use it.


What to avoid:

•   Crepe: Crepe is a crinkled fabric that was not used in our era
•   Jersey Wool: Jersey is a knit fabric. Knits are wrong for us and Jersey is know to rip easy and once it is ripped it starts to fall apart being a knit fabric
•   Suiting: Modern suit fabrics just are not the right look for what we want. Also 9 times out of 10 it’s the wrong color for us.
•   Gabardine: Gabardine is a nice twill weave but is chemically treated to be glossy on the finished top, which is wrong for us. The chemical treatment is not removable.
•   Stripes: Avoid any striped material because we have no evidence of such material in our era.
•   Wool Blends: Avoid any artificial blend in a material. Artificial fibers trap heat on hot days while natural fibers like wool and linen breathe and keep you cooler.


To Full, or Not to Full, That is the Question:

Fulling: Fulling is the process of agitating (washing in hot water in a machine will do this to non-worsted wools) your wool to make the surface fuzzy and tighten up the weave.

Worsted: Worsted is a weave where the wool thread is spun in a way that leaves the wool cloth smooth and near impossible to full.

The Museum of London book says worsted wools did exist in earlier finds but there is no ratio on that. They also state that some finds could have been fulled, combed then shorn but due to decay no one can be sure. They state that almost all wools buy the 13th century were being fulled and this tapers off again in the 14th century.

Roles in the Group and What You Need:

Archer or Crossbowman:

•   The basic required clothing
•   The required accessories
•   Bow or crossbow of period design
•   Arrows or quarrels of period design

Foot Soldier:

•   The basic required clothing
•   The required accessories
•   Spear
•   Kite shield

Mounted Kit:

•   The basic required clothing
•   The required accessories
•   Mail shirt
•   Helmet
•   Sword
•   Spurs
•   Lance/spear
•   Saddle and tack

The archer, crossbowman, and foot soldiers may also wear mail and a helmet, Foot soldiers may also wear a sword if they have mail and a helmet also, archers and crossbowmen should not carry a sword.

Basic Required Clothing:

•   Braies – Can be either light wool or linen, linen is preferable for ease of cleaning. There are no surviving examples of braies from any medieval era and little in the way of imagery from the 11th century so we have to make an educated guess. We build ours based off either the 4th century Thorsbjerg trousers or the 11th century Skjoldehamn trousers. We also have several guessed patterns we approve of.

•   Shirt – Must be of natural or white linen. Again there is no shirt finds from this era so we must make an educated guess. It should be constructed in a similar fashion as the tunic with the gussets under the arm but not needing the gores for extra room. They should be at least mid-thigh in length and at most just short of the tunic hem. For ease of leg movement either add gores to the side or leave a split from the hip to the hem.

•   Chausses – Must be wool, twill will give a better fit. There is no surviving example form our era so you may either use the 7th century Saint Germaine which are circular woven, or you may use the bias cut Archbishop’s grave in Breman Cathedral circa 1200.

•   Leg Wraps or Garters – Finger loop braided or tablet woven wool leg wraps or garters are preferred. Solid color herringbone is also good for both. Leather with an appropriate bronze buckle may be used for garters but any metal ends must be sheet bronze.

•   Tunic – Must be wool. The design may be either the common tunic construction found from the 9th to the 14th century or the Bliaut style. Norman tunics may either be in 4 gore styles or they may have a front split and should be about knee length when belted. Contrasting colored wools may be used to create a neck, cuff, and hem trim.

•   Hat – Normans are not often shown with hats but for those who want a hat we use the four panel pointy hat or the philigrin hat. If you have a noticeably modern hair cut we ask that you wear a hat to cover it.

•   Cloak – Should be a good fulled wool in a square of semi-circular design. A square is recommended as it can also double as a blanket.

•   Belt – A simple leather belt with the forked tongue works fine. A leather belt with appropriate bronze buckles and strap end are also good.

•   Shoes – Shoes should be made on veggie-tanned leather. We want shoes to be dyed brown or naturally finished with oil like needsfoot. The shoes should be constructed in a period manner. The upper should be stitched to the sole with a flesh edge stitch with waxed linen thread. We suggest using early 12th century examples for patterns since we do not have actual 11th century examples.

Required Accessories

•   Bedding - A bedroll/mattress of linen to be stuffed with straw for sleeping.

•   Crockery – A wooden bowl, spoon, and drinking vessel of appropriate design, perhaps a small cooking pot.

•   A Bag - Referred to alternately as a pilgrim’s satchel, a scrip, or a haversack-like-object, in which to carry small personal belongings and rations.

Kit Recommendations

These are items not required but you should think of having for reenacting with the group.

•   A Second Wool Tunic – Incase of bad weather such as rain or cold temperature a second tunic could be worn over the first.

•   A Wool Blanket – beyond the cloak you may want a second blanket for warmth. It can easily be rolled up with your bedroll.

•   Personal Sundries – These are encouraged, such as: coinage, fire starting equipment, grooming items, a pouch, etc.

•   A Bag - Referred to alternately as a pilgrim’s satchel, a scrip, or a haversack-like-object, in which to carry small personal belongings and rations.

•   Spurs – Spurs are appropriate for a person with a horse or a full knight kit. They should be Oof an appropriate design for the 11th century.

Arms and Armor:

For the purpose of living history presentation we want everyone to start out with at least a spear and shield. To wear a sword you must also have a mail shirt and a helm. Also for presentation a helmet and mail should always be worn together, no helmet only kits.

•   Spear – Mandatory as your first weapon. It should be on an appropriate 11th century design and on an ash shaft.

•   Kite Shield – We want prefer members to have two shields,shields; one for presentations and one for combat but only the combat shield is required. 

o   Both Shields Shall Have the Following:
   The front should be covered in a linen canvas or leather and gessoed over and painted with milk paint.
   The leather shield edging should be rawhide stitched on with sinew.
   Both should have a strap system like seen on the Bayeux tapestry with a shoulder strap.
   If you use a buckle with your shoulder strap you must us a proper bronze buckle.
   The strapping system must be riveted on properly, No round head rivets and washers should be made of square cuts of metal not modern round washers. For rivets modern nails cut and penned work fine.
   Shield bosses are optional.

o   The Presentation Shield Shall be:
   Made in a plank style of (proper wood?).
   For the combat shield you must paint the chosen unit symbol on it.

o   The Combat Shield Shall be:
   Made of two, ÂĽ inch plywood boards glued together.
   The back must also be covered in linen and gessoed.

•   Sword – When buying your first sword buy a European blunt steel combat ready sword on correct design. It should be a type X blade with a fuller. It may have the brazil nut or round pommel. Sheaths should be a proper design with a wood core covered in leather with bronze fittings.

•   Helmet – Helmets should be made in one of three types.

1.   The one pieceone-piece pointy conical helm like the Moravia find.
2.   A four panel pointy conical helm where the panels are riveted to themselves and the only band is for the brow and nasal.
3.   A four-panel pointy top spangenhelm with bands holding the panels together and a brow and nasal ban.

•   Mail – Flat ring riveted mail only, 8mm 18 gauge rings are the preferred size but not required.  Hauberks should be elbow length arms and knee length with a split in the front. An attached coif is preferred but no coif or a separate coif is acceptable.

Required Items for Combat

•   A leather or mail backed glove

•   A helmet

Recommended for Combat

•   Vambraces/arm guards

•   A cup for groin protection

Exceptions for Combat

•Butted mail can be worn for combat needs but we encourage members to sell the butted mail and replace it with the new reasonably priced flat riveted mail.

•   Swords do not need a sheath to be used during combat nor do you need mail to wear a sword for combat.

Swords do not need a sheath to be used during combat nor do you need mail to wear a sword for combat.The "No's". Things not acceptable for reenactment:
•   No modern eyeglasses. Contacts are acceptable.
•   No modern jewelry.
•   No modern shoes.
•   Facial piercing should be removed before an event.
•   Tattoos must be covered.
•   Modern hairstyles must be disguised. (This means no Mohawks or outrageous hair styles)

[Sir Wolf]

 
then you will look something like one of us

[Sir Ulrich]

I could probably get a lot of that stuff at historic enterprises, thankfully I already have shoes and whatnot. Chausses linen shirt and braies are easily bought there. Making some of the stuff myself would prove to be a challenge, like the spear and shield. Already got the perfect sword for it. I am gonna go as a better off Norman footsoldier. Not sure if I'd need a gambeson that was made of accurate materials to go under my maille, if thats the case I'm gonna go for a linen one. Any suggestions on where to get helms? I was thinking getting a GDFB one but I saw some cheaper ones that were 16 gauge. A coif would also be needed and I think GDFB has a good enough one for that.

[Sir Wolf]

no. gambesons at this point are not period or historically proven.

[Sir Wolf]

cheaper helms

http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=IR80699&name=Nasal+Spangenhelm
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=8122&name=Norman+Helm
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB0399&name=Spangenhelm+%231
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AB0415&name=Spangenhelm+%233
http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Plain_Norman_Helm_GH0160.html
http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Spangenhelm_with_Chainmail_Aventail_Ready_For_Use_RFU737.html
http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Wenceslaus_Helm_10th_Century_Ready_For_Use_RFU733.html
http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Medieval_Spangenhelm_with_Cheek_Guards_Ready_For_Use_RFU735.html take off cheek guards
http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Norman_Medieval_Helmet_Ready_For_Use_RFU731.html one of my fav's

[Sir Ulrich]

Oh so I don't need a gambeson, guess I'll just wear a tunic under the maille then.
So many decisions for helms, think I'm gonna go for this one http://www.by-the-sword.com/acatalog/Wenceslaus_Helm_10th_Century_Ready_For_Use_RFU733.html as I like the frontal piece, but I'm not sure what what gauge they need for the Hastings battle (though I'd assume 16) . If not I'll just get the regular spangenhelm.

For the shield I may just have to make my own, or go for this http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AH6756&name=Wooden+Kite+Shield Not sure of the quality though and it may be cheaper to make my own. Just need a bit of skill to make it.

When it comes to maille the hauberk I ordered has long sleeves, were those used during that time? Otherwise I may have to cut them down a bit which I could always reattach them later. The thigh flaps shouldn't be a problem though as it has them. Coif wise I want to have a separate coif so it's more versatile, and to be a bit more accurate I'm going for dome riveted flat ring maille as I don't think wedge riveted existed at that time.

Swords wise I think my sword is pretty much fine apart from the scabbard, which is basically plastic and is held on by a really inaccurate sword frog. Spear wise I'm pretty much toast as if I go to England carrying that on the plane would be impossible...