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Author Topic: Reenactment grade steel?  (Read 7581 times)

Sampf

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Reenactment grade steel?
« on: 2015-05-16, 05:26:03 »
Ok since this forum seems to be filled with people who know their way around armor more than I do (I'm a beginner so to speak)
I'm Joining an reenactment group that uses full contact full force steel blunted blades.
Anyone reccomend a metal thickness for my armor in the various places of my body?
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Thorsteinn

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #1 on: 2015-05-16, 07:04:18 »
We talking SCA power levels, IMCF or BOTN/HMB power levels, or HEMA power levels?
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Allan Senefelder

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #2 on: 2015-05-17, 17:16:13 »
The group Sam's getting into is the Talbot Companye ( https://www.facebook.com/pages/Talbot-Companye/855142634507922 for those on FB ) who I've done work for before. I recommended Sam join the forum here as a reference resource to pick you guys brains as he's just getting started.

Sir Patrick

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #3 on: 2015-05-18, 00:40:40 »
Looks like a cool group!
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Sir Wolf

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #4 on: 2015-05-18, 01:43:57 »
always love me some Paul Binns swords. my Lutel is good as well.

Sir Edward

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #5 on: 2015-05-18, 13:41:45 »
The videos look like they're using a moderate level of power. Probably nowhere near BOTN level.

For metal thickness, you're probably looking at 16ga plate for most of your body. But I highly recommend talking to the group you're joining, since they probably already have a set of rules and/or guidelines around this, and I'd hate for you to buy something and then find out it's against their rules.

I'll comment on swords also, with the assumption that you're looking for that too. But again, you'll want to talk to your group about this as well.

Since the swords are striking armor a lot, you definitely want something durable There are many options out there that will work for this.

From Albion, the Meyer is really meant more for unarmored combat, but could still work. It's a little more expensive though. So is the Albion Liechtenauer. That one is meant as more of a stage-combat, or half-swording weapon, rather than one you're going to do powerful strikes with, as it has fairly thin edges.

From Arms and Armor, the Fechterspiel is a good sturdy longsword, at a similar price point to the Albion Meyer.

But there are much more affordable options out there. I'd consider Darkwood Armory and Ensifer as really good affordable choices. There are probably many others I'm not thinking of at the moment too.

« Last Edit: 2015-05-18, 13:43:23 by Sir Edward »
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Sampf

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #6 on: 2015-05-19, 20:36:13 »
Yea I was thinking of getting a 16 gauge Breastplate from Allan actually.
The other members use things from him and recommended him to me.
I'm most likely not going to go for a back plate since its one on one fighting face to face as well as I have a nice gambeson that should cushion any blows back there by a decent amount.
I'm Building my armory piece by piece
 
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Thorsteinn

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #7 on: 2015-05-19, 21:54:07 »
What kind of kit are you going for? Have you decided to go with at least a 14 ga steel with 12 for the crown for your helm?

If you have the money you can go spring steel, or spring stainless, and save some weight. If not I'd use Mild as it will help eat energy of strikes. I love that my stainless doesn't rust but I'd love more if it had eaten the newtons in deformation that mild would have.
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Sampf

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Re: Reenactment grade steel?
« Reply #8 on: 2015-05-20, 00:18:22 »
The kit I am pulling together is general late 1300s early 1400s. For the sake of protection and fun I am using a 2mm thick Bascinet with a visor with the visor covered and slotted by metal as to not allow swords through. 2mm is around 14 gauge
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