Epoxy, Broken sword, and Searching

[Sir Nate]

http://armor.com/sword145.html
And I seemed to have over looked a st. Maurice sword that meets the variants I am looking for.
I wonder what the weight is tho It doesn't seem to say

[Sir Ulrich]

http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=AA145&name=Arms+%26+Armor+St+Maurice+Sword
That one has a better more acceptable weight of 3 pounds .6 ounces. I would save up for the good one if I was buying because I wont ever have to replace it.

[Lord Dane]

If someone wants a new line Albion Vigil (brown leather grip) at a decently discounted price (Perfect condition). I know somebody with one who needs the money. And no, it is not mine. Interested parties, let me know.

[Sir Nate]

If someone wants a new line Albion Vigil (brown leather grip) at a decently discounted price (Perfect condition). I know somebody with one who needs the money. And no, it is not mine. Interested parties, let me know.

Silly knigget, I have no money
(Can't even tell you how much I had to fight autocorrect to say K.n.i.g.g.e.t)

[Sir William]

Albion makes a St. Maurice as well...they decided to pay homage to the one housed in Turin; A&A's is a more ornate version, copying the coronation sword used by the Holy Roman Empire.  The Albion one probably has a higher level of finish; I managed to get ahold of a cross from an A&A St. M sword some years back and have used it on two different swords so far.  The engraving had to have been done by hand as the depth and uniformity of the letters isn't as crisp as you'd find on a machine cast or stamped piece.

Both swords are similar in size but come from differing periods; I imagine they handle somewhat similarly- the Albion one has a balance point of 9" from the cross, the A&A one is just under 7".  Both are big cavalry style swords, or so I have read.

[Ian]

My personal philosophy on swords for a reenactment kit is to stay away from ultra-specific copies of very special swords.  The A&A St Maurice like Sir William said has the specific markings of the HRE Coronation Sword, or the A&A Edward III sword has the Royal Arms of England on the pommel and is etched with the Order of the Garter seal.  None of those things are appropriate for your kit unless you're portraying the Holy Roman Emperor or King of England

If you want a 'blingy' sword for a kit, then I would get something with more generic bling, not something that specifically points to an individual in history.  Just my take on it...

[Sir Nate]

My personal philosophy on swords for a reenactment kit is to stay away from ultra-specific copies of very special swords.  The A&A St Maurice like Sir William said has the specific markings of the HRE Coronation Sword, or the A&A Edward III sword has the Royal Arms of England on the pommel and is etched with the Order of the Garter seal.  None of those things are appropriate for your kit unless you're portraying the Holy Roman Emperor or King of England

If you want a 'blingy' sword for a kit, then I would get something with more generic bling, not something that specifically points to an individual in history.  Just my take on it...

I never considered that, good idea. Also means it can become a
More personal sword.

[Sir Ulrich]

If someone wants a new line Albion Vigil (brown leather grip) at a decently discounted price (Perfect condition). I know somebody with one who needs the money. And no, it is not mine. Interested parties, let me know.

If only I had the money, though my parents will kill me if they see me buy another sword. After looking at it I like the Albion Vigil quite a bit due to its massive blade.

[Lord Dane]

The guy was willing to negotiate on price if I bought his scabbard. I purchased it & said I would hook him up on the sword. He offered it at $500 if I bought his DBK custom scabbard which was beautiful. The Albion Vigil in new line series and perfect condition. Let me know & I'll give you his info. It is a steal. He needs the money.

[Sir Ulrich]

Now I'm tempted even more 500 is a steal for that sword thats less than what I payed for my Ritter with but my parents would kill me. Someone should probably get it before I do but i've already spent an excessive amount on Albions.. Maybe it's time to sell some of the goods I wont be using anymore like my old Hanweis.

[Chuck G.]

A&A is really awesome, because they make a lot of the more "difficult" types of swords that Albion doesn't do currently. Plus, they do polearms, and take custom orders as well. Their product has a more hand-made sort of finish to it than some others, but in a very authentic way. Plus they have access to a lot of historical originals, to replicate the details.

Let me add to this by saying A&A is top notch. I've actually been by their shop several times in Minneapolis, and they're really a great bunch of folks. Naturally, I have quite a few of their offerings from over the years, including some that are OOP.

In addition to their regular offerings, be sure to check out their Custom section to get a sense of the full range that they can offer.

[Chuck G.]

Happens when hitting solid wood with a "rat tail" (thin round) tang like that. You could keep the handle / hilt / crossguard and buy a new blade, but I wouldn't suggest hitting wood with it.

I'm not sure about the Del Tin tangs, but they are critical to the sword taking abuse - and hitting solid wood is indeed sword abuse.

Yeah, not only is the rattail too thin, but the threads create stress risers that can cause fractures. I have a pretty strict "NO THREADS" policy with my rehilts. I can only think of one exception - an old A&A short sword that had a small amount of threading (some of their swords have maybe a 1/2" or so on the very end where they screw down the pommel nut to secure a pommel and then peen it. This is acceptable - screw on pommels not so much). Otherwise I will reforge tangs, grind, etc. to remove threading. Just too much of a structural risk.

What are you planning on doing with the sword?

[Sir Nate]

Happens when hitting solid wood with a "rat tail" (thin round) tang like that. You could keep the handle / hilt / crossguard and buy a new blade, but I wouldn't suggest hitting wood with it.

I'm not sure about the Del Tin tangs, but they are critical to the sword taking abuse - and hitting solid wood is indeed sword abuse.

Yeah, not only is the rattail too thin, but the threads create stress risers that can cause fractures. I have a pretty strict "NO THREADS" policy with my rehilts. I can only think of one exception - an old A&A short sword that had a small amount of threading (some of their swords have maybe a 1/2" or so on the very end where they screw down the pommel nut to secure a pommel and then peen it. This is acceptable - screw on pommels not so much). Otherwise I will reforge tangs, grind, etc. to remove threading. Just too much of a structural risk.

What are you planning on doing with the sword?

My plans with a sword is to not to do what I did with my first one. A sword to me is a personal Item that I think a Medievalist should think of getting. One that is at least peened, but meets the right applicant's that can bond with ones soul.
So I would be getting a sword just to have

[Sir Nate]

How are legacy arm's products?
http://www.kultofathena.com/product.asp?item=IP602&name=Legacy+Arms+Brookhart+Templar+Sword

[Chuck G.]

My plans with a sword is to not to do what I did with my first one. A sword to me is a personal Item that I think a Medievalist should think of getting. One that is at least peened, but meets the right applicant's that can bond with ones soul.
So I would be getting a sword just to have

Eh... I meant less existentially - what are you planning on doing with the broken sword? Keep in mind you could use it as a project to rebuild it into a functional weapon again, if only by cutting down into a shorter sword. All you really need is a bench vise, files, hacksaw & blades, and various grits of sandpaper to do this.

I was even mulling buying the bits off of you just to demonstrate what could be done with this (sort of a "turd to treasure" type of thing), but I've got enough projects at this point and don't need to add to the heap.