CoP: My winter project!

[Sir William]

That one's a beaut, Sir Brian; nicely done, Allan, as always.

[Aiden of Oreland]

just aim for the fingers

Don't say that! I have had terrible experiences with light sabers...

[Lord Dane]

No need to aim for fingers. Just hit him in the thumbs. LOL
Nice work Allan & gorgeous CoP Brian. Can you post some pics of the plates laid out inside so I can see the details??

[Sir Brian]

Sure, I'll try and get some later today or tomorrow.

[Lord Dane]

Sure, I'll try and get some later today or tomorrow.

I'm not usually into them but I got a good deal on a 14 gauge blackened Sugarloaf helm with a visor and brass cross. Can use it as an alternative look on my black kit. I'll take some pics. It is nice surprisingly. Did not think I would like Sugarloafs.   

[Allan Senefelder]

Can you post some pics of the plates laid out inside so I can see the details??

Dane, its based on the Wisby I COP. Polarbear included a photocopy of how the plates are supposed to be layed out but I noticed during research that the overlap of the side plates was different than the original. I had intended to lay the sides out as the original but Polarbear added extra rivet holes to each plate beyond what was on the originals which in the end had me going with the way Polarbear had them layed out. It in no way detracts from functionality or esthetics. Polarbear included some extra plates including a double of the center plate at the neck which I used for the back to give a little coverage for the spine and to carry the central suspension ring for the lacing support for the ends of the sides at the back. The three ring ( one at the top of the end of each side and one in the center of the back ) laced suspension is the method used on the original Wisby I COP. The original  ring mounts were steel but I opted for brass to keep with the esthetic of Brian's COP. The shoulders on the original were bare steel/iron but Brian had applied a good thick heavy enamel coat to the plates so I covered them with the same green leather the COP is made from and used small brass rivets to secure it to keep the esthetics of the overall look intact.

[Sir James A]

Awesome Allan! That turned out really well. I had no idea about the rings part, either.

[Lord Dane]

I know Allan. I just wanted to see your handywork. Very nice!!

[Sir Brian]

Here is a photo of the inside of the COP.

For the lacing I determined that the best method was for me to loop the tie cord around the top middle ring then pass a bitter end through each lower ring then simply tie a knot to keep it in place. I went with the same type of fancy cord and aglets I use to lace up my surcoat.

[Ian]

Looks great on you Sir Brian! 

[Lord Dane]

Ditto. Liking it.

[Sir Ulrich]

Nice, I may have to ask Allan about making one of these once I get a hide and find a maker to make the Visby type 7 kits. I want a Visby type 7 that uses less plates and isnt nearly as long. One I currently got is too heavy to use over maille, Joe Metz rarely uses his coat of plates over his maille for "practicality" reasons as he told me at DoK 2. His is 20 gauge and mine is 16 gauge which is rather thick. I would assume the bigger the plates the lesser the weight along with the plates being thinner.

[Sir Rodney]

OK Sir Brian, that fencing kit is pure awesome!

Tell me more about the fencing mask and those finger gauntlets.   

[Sir Brian]

Thanks!

The gauntlets are my ‘FrankenGaunts’ that I cobbled together from three different gauntlets.
My mask I had a good friend paint for me a couple of years ago so it looks like it needs a touch up on it.

http://modernchivalry.org/forum/index.php/topic,2660.15.html

[Sir James A]

I'm thinking the rings and lacing are similar to some samurai armor I saw a while back, that fits in a very similar way of wrapping, but with different sized plates in different orientations.