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Author Topic: Proper Medieval Footwear  (Read 31584 times)

Ian

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Proper Medieval Footwear
« on: 2014-02-04, 21:01:20 »
So, for whatever reason I've become obsessed lately with medieval footwear.  There are a lot of myths and misconceptions about what our ancestors wore on their feet and a lot of it comes from the modern reproduction medieval footwear that is mass produced, and poorly interpreted.

The biggest myth that gets me is that people think medieval footwear was slippery, and that somehow medieval people just got used to it, or had some technique for not falling everywhere that they walked.  This is of course just as silly as it sounds.  The culprit is a combination of things.  I think the first cause of this misconception is our preconceived and very modern notion that the sole of a shoe should be hard.  All modern rubber shoe soles are hard (well, most are, but I'll get in to that in a minute).  The modern mind is so convinced that a shoe sole needs to be hard, that the reproduction mass market decided that so too should medieval footwear have a hard sole.  This may be a case of the chicken or the egg though...

The end result is reproduction shoes with hardened leather soles.  What does hardened leather do when you walk on grass?  It turns every natural surface in to a slip-and-slide!  So what do we do?  Do we question why there's hardened leather on the shoe?  No!  We just assume medieval people were crazy, and correct their idiocy by adding a modern rubber or lugged sole to a medieval reproduction shoe... then we all have a nice big sigh of relief when we walk across that field and maintain our footing!

Right now a 14th century cordwainer is rolling over in his grave while simultaneously laughing at how we got it so wrong.

Luckily, we have a modern analog to what makes medieval footwear great, and healthier to wear.  Those strange minimalist shoes with the 5 toes on them that look really weird... (I've run and worked out in these for years). They in essence allow you to do everything as if you're barefoot, while offering protection from stuff on the ground like rocks, puddles, dirt etc...  They have some amazing benefits though.  They get you to use all the muscles in your foot that modern footwear forces you to neglect.  Modern shoes teach you to run incorrectly and break our proper biomechanic pattern by allowing us to do what our feet were not designed to do.  Those goofy five-finger shoes force you to re-learn how to walk and run like a person was supposed to.  You develop the muscles that you  haven't used since you spend most of your time barefoot.  But what about ankle support?   This is of course another crutch that modern shoes have caused us to rely upon because they do so much work for you, your underdeveloped and weak stabilizing muscles in your foot and ankle don't work like they should. 

Now enter proper medieval footwear.  The sole of every surviving medieval shoe is a nice supple soft piece of leather.  This affords all the same benefits as being barefoot while offering you some protection from stuff on the ground like rocks, puddles, dirt etc... sound familiar?  It allows you to feel the ground!  It doesn't slip because it's not hardened.  It keeps your muscles working properly and negates the need for ankle support.  It protects you from the ground.  If you're going to be walking around on particularly rough surfaces then you of course had the option to wear pattens (wooden overshoes, like sandals that strap to your turnshoe).

Erase those misconceptions from your mind that medieval footwear is slippery and not suited for use in reenactment!  Our ancestors were not fools, we are the fools for trying to improve upon what they already had right!  We took their shoes out of their medieval context, ruined them, and gave a lot of people a lot of misconceptions about what our medieval counterparts really wore.  :)
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Don Jorge

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #1 on: 2014-02-04, 21:29:41 »
And where does one get proper 14th century turnshoes? I think Frank @ Viking has a hardened leather shot bottom no?

Thorsteinn

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #2 on: 2014-02-04, 21:50:45 »
Mind you this changes when you start looking at pattens, caligae, etc.

Quote
And where does one get proper 14th century turnshoes? I think Frank @ Viking has a hardened leather shot bottom no?

Armlann, Bohemond Boots, & Revival also sell period turn shoes.
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Sir James A

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #3 on: 2014-02-04, 21:56:10 »
I agree, I started with some really cheap MRL "medieval shoe-boots" that have a very thin soft sole. A day at MDRF walking around was rough since the sole was so thin, and I could feel the rocks and uneven ground through my feet from it.

I like the lugged soles because it lets me run lacing and straps under the shoes without having to walk directly on the lacing and straps. I nipped out a lug on each side so that my spur strap sits flush with the bottom of the lugs, instead of hanging down.

I'd also call that a modernism, since I doubt they cared about walking on spur straps, and would primarily be wearing spurs when, surprise, on horseback - not walking around a renn fest for 8 hours.

Although I'm really curious about those 5-toed shoes. Have you seen the people who run barefoot? A while back, someone said that running barefoot was better for you than running in shoes, even if they are $100/$200 fancy ultra-light running shoes. Similar idea?

Frank at Viking Leather has a standard leather sole. He can add a vibram sole, or lugged sole to it. I'm not sure if he does custom sole requests or not, but he's a great guy and if it's something you want, ask him.
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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #4 on: 2014-02-04, 21:56:20 »
And where does one get proper 14th century turnshoes? I think Frank @ Viking has a hardened leather shot bottom no?

Viking Leather just re-sells Westland boots, which are manufactured in Pakistan.  There also not turnshoes, so they're not really period to most of the periods they claim.  They're welted I believe which is not period for the bulk of the medieval era despite their labels on the website.

Bohemond is a step from Viking, in that at least their turnshoes are actually turnshoes, but they glue in the heal stiffeners and use hardened leather soles that are super slippery.

The best way to get real turnshoes is to make them yourself of course!  That's what I'm going to be doing here shortly.

If you just want to buy a pair you can get good medieval footwear here:
Dru Shoemaker's shop will make them.

If you want to spend more:
Plantagenet Shoes
NP Historical Shoes
« Last Edit: 2014-02-04, 22:02:58 by Ian »
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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #5 on: 2014-02-04, 21:59:59 »
As for spur straps, a proper supple sole allows the spur strap to naturally go in to the arch of your foot and you wouldn't be walking on it like you describe.
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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #6 on: 2014-02-04, 22:25:40 »
Heh, I started with those MRL boots with the soft sole, too. I actually found them rather comfortable, probably because I do spend a lot of time walking barefoot (Or in socks if it's cold. I go through socks like crazy...).

I settled for the Viking Leather shoes because...well...I'm cheap. And for my purposes, they're good enough for now. I had originally planned to make my own, but was kind of iffy about making shoes. Some places say correct shaping of the vamps is important, others say it doesn't really matter that much and that there often wasn't even a proper "left" and "right" in medieval shoes. I was basically worried that I'd end up hobbling myself because I messed up something.

I'm curious, though, as to what they did in snow. Pattens would work for a few inches but what about really deep snow? Bigger pattens? Stay indoors? It just doesn't seem like turnshoes would be very protective in the snow.
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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #7 on: 2014-02-04, 22:31:20 »
A rand in between the vamps and the sole will help make the shoe more watertight, but it's definitely an issue.  Christian Cameron recently wore his harness in the snow with authentic turnshoes and said they held up quite well.  I've never done it myself.

If you're interested in making your own Doug, these two books are probably some of the best resources to get your started on proper construction and technique:
Shoes and Pattens
or
Stepping Through Time
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Sir Douglas

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #8 on: 2014-02-04, 23:01:12 »
I wonder if they also could have had some kind of oil mixture to help weatherproof it. I'm sure they had some kind of clever solution for snow that we don't know about. Then again, if Mr. Cameron wore his without issue, then it may not have been that big of a problem to them in the first place. Who knows?


If you're interested in making your own Doug, these two books are probably some of the best resources to get your started on proper construction and technique:
Shoes and Pattens
or
Stepping Through Time
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« Last Edit: 2014-02-04, 23:06:03 by DouglasTheYounger »
Per pale azure and argent, an eagle displayed per pale argent and sable, armed and langued or.

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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #9 on: 2014-02-04, 23:06:24 »
Oil mixed with beeswax was a practice for finishing leather.  But long-term water exposure would still be tough to fight I think.
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Sir Douglas

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #10 on: 2014-02-04, 23:15:00 »
What's your opinion on the illustrations that show people wearing nothing but woolen chausses? Given the soft nature of period shoes, it probably wouldn't be beyond reason to go without additional foot covering. I would think chausses meant to be worn by themselves would probably benefit from a leather sole, if for no other reason than to prevent the fabric sole from wearing out quickly.
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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #11 on: 2014-02-04, 23:54:25 »
What's your opinion on the illustrations that show people wearing nothing but woolen chausses? Given the soft nature of period shoes, it probably wouldn't be beyond reason to go without additional foot covering. I would think chausses meant to be worn by themselves would probably benefit from a leather sole, if for no other reason than to prevent the fabric sole from wearing out quickly.

I can't recall, but I'm almost certain there are depictions of chausses that did have a sole, intended for wear without a shoe. 

Chuck would probably know.
« Last Edit: 2014-02-05, 00:59:47 by Ian »
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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #12 on: 2014-02-05, 01:32:40 »
Ian is quickly becoming our resident expert on... well... everything. :)
« Last Edit: 2014-02-05, 01:32:46 by Sir Edward »
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Ian

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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #13 on: 2014-02-05, 01:40:37 »
Ian is quickly becoming our resident expert on... well... everything. :)

Chuck knows all this crap... he just likes turtles too much :)
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Re: Proper Medieval Footwear
« Reply #14 on: 2014-02-05, 04:23:12 »
My fighting footwear progression has, thus far, gone from white tennis shoes (give me a break, it was the early 90’s) to hiking boots with lots of ankle support (  ::) ) to steel toe barn boots (with heels!) to Viking Leathercraft 14th century buckle boots.

I love feeling the ground beneath my feet with Frank’s imported Westland shoes.  Although they’re not the most historically accurate shoe out there, they sure do feel good and look OK from 10’ (great by SCA standards).  The next logical step for me is to explore the shoe makers that Ian’s noted above.  One small step at a time.  ;)

P.S. Ian, don't sell yourself short.  You are a wealth of good information and I'm very interested to hear more of your recent brush with La Belle!
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