Screw on pommel help.

[Sir James A]

Actually, there might be an even easier solution. If my guess is right, the real problem is that the nut used to secure the grip in place is fractionally too tall, and sticks out of the pommel recess ever so slightly, preventing the pommel from screwing on all the way. To fix you could either go to a decent hardware store with the nut and see if you can find one that is the same thread size and hole but dimensionally shorter, or simply take the nut, clamp it in a vise leaving it protruding out and use a file to file it down however much is needed. One way or the other this should be a pretty easy fix.

Well it's not the nut, It seems to be the pommel because even with the grip and nut removed, I can get it on so it won't fall off but I can't tighten it to a point were it stops. It can keep turning and turning, I think it just needs to be resewn by epoxy seems like a good idea

The nut will just keep turning and never tighten? Sounds like the thread is stripped. Can you get some better, clear pictures, and we can give you a definite?

[Sir Nate]

I'll have more pics either Friday or Monday. (Sword is at other house)

[Chuck G.]

Would it also be possible to get a picture of the tang without the cross, grip and pommel in place (i.e. the bare sword). Curious to see how big it is.

[Sir Nate]

ya of course.

[Sir Nate]

This isnt mine imparticular, But its from the replies on a a review of the sword.
Ill give a link to the review.http://sbgswordforum.proboards.com/thread/2157?page=2

[Chuck G.]

Rather narrow tang. Would take a lot to make it a truly serviceable sword. Not impossible, but definately some work.

[Sir Nate]

Maybe I should just start saving for an Albion. 75 bucks. Not a huge loss.

[Ian]

Maybe I should just start saving for an Albion. 75 bucks. Not a huge loss.

If you're genuinely interested in replacing that sword (which I would recommend if you want to be able to use it, that sword's tang isn't really safe to swing or cut with), you don't need to necessarily go for an Albion the first time out of the gate.  Let us know and we can guide you pretty well to get a very serviceable and safe sword for significantly less money than an Albion.  If you do want to go for the Albion, then by all means, have at it!

[Sir Patrick]

Yeah that tang is pretty thin. If you fix the pommel problem, just use it as a wall-hanger. On the subject of tangs, another thing you may come across with lower-end swords is a tang that is nothing more than a bit of metal welded to the blade. These are referred to as "rat tail tangs" and are highly dangerous as they tend to snap under even the low strain of merely swinging the sword (sending the blade flying off into space and at anyone in that direction).

[Sir Nate]

this tang is part of the sword. not welded. But just pm me some links to other sword sites other than albion. Cause I was looking at the knightly 13th century sword under squire line swords. But do please send me links. Id love to get a better sword soon.

[Sir Edward]

I don't own examples from all of these makers, so I can't speak to the quality personally:

Darksword Armory:  http://darksword-armory.com/

Valiant Armory: http://www.valiant-armoury.com/swords.php

Armour Class: http://www.armourclass.co.uk/Data/Pages/Medieval_Main2.htm

Windlass Steelcrafts is very hit-or-miss, but if you're mainly looking for the looks and not the durability, they can be OK.

Same deal with Hanwei. They're usually not bad for the price, but it varies.

Del Tin makes nice historical designs, but they tend toward the heavy side on nearly every model.

I've heard generally good things about Lutel, but have never owned one.

If you look at KOA, they have a lot of these choices at good prices, including the manufacturers above: http://www.kultofathena.com/swords-medieval.asp

[Chuck G.]

+1 on Sir Edward's advice.

Most of the Windlass pieces do tend to be inaccurate in terms of looks - mostly designed to appeal to a crowd that is less informed about historical accuracy. Deepeekas are suprisingly a bit better, actually. Hanweis look good though I've not handled any.

I do recommend Del Tins as they look really good (some are quite excellent in terms of detail) and generally well built and sturdy. They can be heavier than they should be, though.

I would especially recommend Kult of Athena (KoA) for any of the above, including Arms & Armor and Albion (?), as they have the best prices. Also, the descriptions feature multiple good quality pictures from several angles to get a better feel for the piece.

[Chuck G.]

Maybe I should just start saving for an Albion. 75 bucks. Not a huge loss.

If you can get access to a bench vise, hacksaw, files, and a drill you could do a minimal modification that would at least allow the tang to go through the pommel all the way, which could be either peened over or allow you to secure it with a separate nut. Basically, you would need to cut down the "shoulders" of the blade (i.e. where the blade and tang meet) enough so that you lengthen the tang enough to be able to go all the way through the length of the pommel with a bit extra to allow for peening or securing with a separate nut. If you can get the basic tools and are interested in tackling such a project, I can give you more information on what to do. Might be of interest to others on the forum, as well.

If you wanted to go all out, you could rework the grip, refine the cross and pommel, and do a few other details that will really make the sword stand out, but that is more work. The above is straightforward enough to be doable with a bit of support from others.

[Sir James A]

The others have covered the tang and everything else very well. Only thing I have to add is that if you do fix the pommel on this one, it could be a wall hanger OR fine for dress too. I have the feeling it should be: blade, hilt/crossguard, grip, pommel, nut at the very end. Try that and see how much you have to tighten it down with.

[Sir Nate]

A video I made. showing more so the pommel troubles.