Adding faulds

[Das Bill]

So we've talked about this breast plate in the past:


http://www.casiberia.com/product_details.asp?id=AB0088

I picked one up recently, and am contemplating adding faulds. Now, I most likely will have to have someone else make them... but out of curiosity, how hard is it to make faulds yourself? Sir Wolf, I'm looking in your direction.

[Sir Wolf]

me what? where? i didn't do it.

it really not that hard. one thing is faulds are not straight. they have a slight curve to them. they also need a slight dish around the spot where they come in contact with lame(fauld) above or below it. this allows the steel to catch on something and not allow gapping. some faulds articulate on them selves via rivets on either side. some on sliding rivets, some on rivets with leather and some totally on leather. there is a lot to get a pattern right and then hammering, checking the fit, then hammering, then checking the fit then planishing, grumbling cause u over planished and need to recheck the fit then... hehehhe. i think you could do it with the right tools.  if I'm not mistaken the Canadian armourer Eric Duche sells a set of faulds. and does Merc Tailor?

how is the fit of those? i was looking at one myself. need some sizing details

[Allan Senefelder]

Bill, the point of the leather wheather using rivets at the side or leathers alone for articulation is the keep the fauld lames from dropping apart. The lames fit loose, that is they are not snug up on one another to allow them to completely telescope up in a full waist plung, the leather keeps the plates from dropping apart when at rest, its basically a device for controlling how far the plates can return at rest.

Locate the center of the flange at the bottom of the breast plate, this is where you holes for your leather will be ( usually a pair ) measure the desired equal distance out to either side for the location of either your side leathers or slot rivets depending on the desired method of articulation. If rivets will be used at the sides the top holes of the next lame down in the series that will correspond with the bottom holes in the first lame should be approx. 1/16" - 1/8" farther out than the holes in the first lame. You should add 1/16" to 1/8" to either side of each progessive lower lame as well to keep the edges lined up. If leather articulation is to be used at all three points then the adjustment of the progessive lower lame holes out is not necessary, it is desirable to have the pairs of holes to anchore the leathers at the three points ( center and either side) line up with each other from lame to lame ( althought slight variations will not hurt and were quite common( take a look at the set of original pauldron lames I re-leathered to see an example of this hole misalignment on original work).

[Das Bill]

Thanks for the replies, guys! I'd likely have to invest in the tools if I chose to do this myself, and its probably more cost effecient for me to hire someone else to do it, seeing as I wouldn't be doing this enough to justify the tools.

But its still interesting for me to learn how its done.

[Das Bill]

The reason I bought this:

I already have a mostly full harness. That will be my main one. I would like to have a "field harness", something that I can put on without another person there, so that I can wear it to demos and such. So basically I'm looking at this breast plate, my current legs, a helmet and gauntlets. I could use my current cuirass, but its tricky to put on by myself.

But if I'm going to put together a second harness, it dawned on me that I could make a completely different kit with it. So what I'm planning on doing is blueing this, but using gilt paint to line the edges. (This is inspired by projects that Sean Flynt was working on.) I will also get another helmet at some point... I was thinking of getting a GDFB sallet and taking off the visor. This would also be blued with gilt paint. Eventually I'll upgrade my leg harness for my main harness with something nicer, so the GDFB ones I already have will eventually get the blued/gilt treatment as well.

So I'll have my main "nice" harness, which will continue to get upgraded over time with nicer pieces, and a back up one made with inexpensive but decent pieces that can also work for passing around at demos if I'm not wearing them.

[Sir Edward]

That's a pretty slick idea. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

[Allan Senefelder]

Bill, I would recommend heat blueing over chemical blueing ( this is just a personal preference ). Chemical blueing can be a bit more finicky in getting to " blue" sometimes comming out more black. It can achieve very nice results but can require some practice. I just use a propane torch ( with MAPP gas, it burns hotter so heats quicker). The surface needs to be clean an shiney ( not mirror, we do a four step wire cup polish and it works fine) and I would reccomend using a new pair of gloves that does nothing but handle the cleaned metal. Fire up the torch and heat, you'll see the temper come out ( yellow down to deep purple/blue) the front edge of which will act as your guid to heat. It will be about an inch and a half in front of your flame so its kind of like pushing the color in front of the flame. The only other thing you need is a no buring surface to do it on, even a concrete floor will work, just make sure its clean swept as the flame moves air around can kick up dust, this dust can settle on the heated surface causing dark spots.

[Das Bill]

Hi Allen,
Its a good idea, but I just don't have the workspace or tools to do that, unfortunately. But to be honest, cold chemical blueing will be fine for this particular harness. Its more for cosmetic purposes than durability, as the harness really won't see heavy use. It will get passed around occassionally, and be worn for some demos here and there (though the vast majority of my demos don't require armour, so even that is very occassional).

I've done lots of cold blueing before, and I've been able to get pretty good results.