Antique 16th century plate legs - or at least, they look like it (RemOil is BAD)

[Sir James A]

This was a rather unpleasant find. After cleaning off the rust from wearing my harness at VARF last week, I did the 'usual' ... CLR w/scotchbrite, WD40, dry, oil, , profit.

The next morning?



Yep. The *entire* leg rusted. The top leg is from the same process, but not using the RemOil. I may have to disassemble these to get them properly cleaned, the oil rusted things so badly it's even in-between the articulation. And I had some small, light spots of rust on the leg harness before applying that oil - it was nowhere near that rusted all over, or that dark of a patina either.

I picked up the RemOil in a spray can, and a package of oil-soaked wipes, at Wal-Mart in the gun section. The can says "exceptionally high performance cleaner, lubricant and corrosion protectant" ... I think it should say corrosion promoter. It's terrible. Don't let it anywhere near your armor!

[SirNathanQ]

THE HORROR!!!!! THE HORROR!!!! OH GOD, MAKE IT STOP!!! 

That's insane. Looks like you rolled a natural 1 on a saving throw against some +15 rust monsters 

[Sir Edward]

Yeah, this has been happening with my MercTailor gauntlets as well. My troubles began when I switched to the spray gun oil. I'm going to go back to mineral oil.

Mine is a different brand of gun oil, but something I noticed on the label is that it's synthetic. I wonder if there's something in it that reacts with trace amounts of the CLR left on the metal. I never had much trouble when I cleaned the CLR off with a thorough wipe-down, and then WD-40 and wipe-down again, and then put mineral oil over it.

[Sir Ulrich]

Thats why I use olive oil to oil my armor. I sweat all over my coif and it still didn't rust thanks to the oil I put on it. I cant use anything synthetic as I was totally allergic to synthetic oil on armor.

[Sir Wolf]

i think there maybe water in all spray on oils to help with the spraw part.


ugggggggggggg horror for sure man. i feel for you

[Joshua Santana]

Thats why I use olive oil to oil my armor. I sweat all over my coif and it still didn't rust thanks to the oil I put on it. I cant use anything synthetic as I was totally allergic to synthetic oil on armor.

Interesting.

Yeah, this has been happening with my MercTailor gauntlets as well. My troubles began when I switched to the spray gun oil. I'm going to go back to mineral oil.

Mine is a different brand of gun oil, but something I noticed on the label is that it's synthetic. I wonder if there's something in it that reacts with trace amounts of the CLR left on the metal. I never had much trouble when I cleaned the CLR off with a thorough wipe-down, and then WD-40 and wipe-down again, and then put mineral oil over it.

Quite interesting and lessons for me as well.     If I had to choose an oil for my Kit, WD-40.   

[Ian]

Quite interesting and lessons for me as well.     If I had to choose an oil for my Kit, WD-40.   

WD-40 is NOT an oil and will provide NO lasting protection.  WD-40 is good, but it evaporates rather quickly and would require re-application very frequently.   Like Sir Edward mentioned, after the WD-40, you wipe it clean and THEN apply an oil.  The WD-40 helps eliminate all semblance of water or moisture on the surface of the metal.  The oil applied afterward keeps it off.

My oil of choice is BreakFree CLP (when I'm done using it on my guns) and haven't had any issues.  I've used it on firearms forever, and started using it on armor.  I've used it on mild steel as well as spring steel parts, and I use it on my swords as well, and have always had fantastic results.  (It's also recommended by Albion! http://www.albion-swords.com/swords/albion/sword-care.htm)

Sir James,  you could always go for the 16th Century Spanish Conquistador in the humid jungles of the New World look?   I kid I kid....

[Sir Edward]

WD-40 is NOT an oil and will provide NO lasting protection.  WD-40 is good, but it evaporates rather quickly and would require re-application very frequently.   Like Sir Edward mentioned, after the WD-40, you wipe it clean and THEN apply an oil.  The WD-40 helps eliminate all semblance of water or moisture on the surface of the metal.  The oil applied afterward keeps it off.

Someone conducted a test recently, by applying a variety of different oils, waxes, etc on swords and seeing which resisted rust the best. WD-40 was in his top-5, but the problem with his experiment is that he was comparing results after only 30 days. WD-40 evaporates within that timespan, so you'd have to reapply it every few weeks for this to be sustainable, as Sir Ian pointed out.

WD-40 is really good to use before applying your oil, though, and here's why. "WD" stands for "Water Displacement" (and the 40 comes from the fact that it was their 40th formula). It's designed to get into all of the little microscopic nooks and crannies in the surface of the steel and displace the moisture. The wipe-down is needed to remove the moisture. Then you can apply your sealant.

You can actually safely wash your sword blades and armor pieces with soapy water to get old oils off, as long as you get the soap off, let it dry for a short while, and then thoroughly hit it with the WD-40 before re-sealing. If you get water on your steel and don't use WD-40, you're risking sealing moisture into those microscopic cracks, and that's where rust will begin.

[Thorsteinn]

In period the solution to rust prevention was a mix of beeswax and olive oil for some.

[SirNathanQ]

Also they painted their armour. Prevents rust and looks awesome!

[Sir Matthew]

I prefer to use Kano Kroil oil, but I'm having a hard time finding it. Hoppes will work, but it's pretty pricey, at least where I am at.  I don't use WD 40 on my armor anymore and am hesitant to use new oils because I am unsure of  their protective value and if they might take the blueing off my armor.

[Sir James A]

Like Sir Edward mentioned, after the WD-40, you wipe it clean and THEN apply an oil.

That's the process I followed. I used to just do scrub-down (typically wire wheel ... before I knew better), then wipedown, then WD-40.

I'll look into the BreakFree CLP oil. Is there a typical local store that might have it? I think I'm going to look into waxes too. The harness I bought had very minimal rusting, and it was coated with wax, not oil.

I think I'm going to polish it more when I get some "down time" later; the more polished steel is, the more it resists rust. Just need to make sure I don't go all "chrome knight" shiny....

I need a squire for this cleaning.

[SirNathanQ]

Huh, it seems the more we do this, the more we appreciate the value of Squires! 

[Sir Rodney]

Yikes!  That is like waking up from a nightmare only to find out you’re wrapped in another nightmare.   

I’ve also heard many people, amateurs and professionals, rave about BreakFree CLP on myArmoury and the Armour Archive.  I plan on purchasing some as soon as my current can of gun oil runs out.

Currently, I’m using a cheap Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil in a 4.5 ounce can.  Regular application has resulted in favorable results with only minor polishing needed on occasion.  Like I said, as soon as it runs out I’m picking up the BreakFree because by all accounts it’s the bomb.

[Joshua Santana]

Yikes!  That is like waking up from a nightmare only to find out you’re wrapped in another nightmare.   

I’ve also heard many people, amateurs and professionals, rave about BreakFree CLP on myArmoury and the Armour Archive.  I plan on purchasing some as soon as my current can of gun oil runs out.

Currently, I’m using a cheap Birchwood Casey synthetic gun oil in a 4.5 ounce can.  Regular application has resulted in favorable results with only minor polishing needed on occasion.  Like I said, as soon as it runs out I’m picking up the BreakFree because by all accounts it’s the bomb.

Interesting, good information and I don't think Squires would a big deal if we polished armor like a household chore, that would solve every problem wouldn't it?