Rust, preventing and cleaning

[Sir Douglas]

I started out using a paste wax; Trewax or something like that. It worked great, but it would get gummed up in breathes and between the joins in the plates, and it was red so there would be these little bits of red wax stuck in places that were hard to clean. Then I tried beeswax, but it was just too hard to work with and, being lazy, I wasn't going to bother with heating it up to make it softer.

The Eagle One is really nice, though. Just spray it on and rub it in with a soft cloth. It doesn't seem to dull the shine as much as the paste wax. I'm guessing because it's specifically formulated for automobiles. The only thing is I haven't been using it for very long, so for the time being I'm unsure if there are any negative long-term effects. So far so good, though.

[LionPride32]

Hehehe I know ALL about CLP!! I was THE armorer of my unit in the marines!! The only one in the unit who could get away with telling the C.O. what  to do.!!! "Sorry Sir, your rifle isn't clean enough....please go out back and scrub it some more."

[Ian]

Yeah, knowing you were a marine I didn't bother explaining anything about CLP because I had a sneaking suspicion you may have used it once or twice before... 

Bottom line, it works great on swords and armor too.

[Sir Humphrey]

I was in the Army when CLP was introduced.  We called it "Breakfree" back in the day. It was a God-send.  It replaced both bore cleaner and gun oil and shortened weapon cleaning time tremendously.  I'm new to armor and swords, but knew immediately that CLP would be what I'll be using.

[Ian]

I was in the Army when CLP was introduced.  We called it "Breakfree" back in the day. It was a God-send.  It replaced both bore cleaner and gun oil and shortened weapon cleaning time tremendously.  I'm new to armor and swords, but knew immediately that CLP would be what I'll be using.

Breakfree is the company that produced CLP  until it was bought out by Safariland.

[Sir James A]

I was in the Army when CLP was introduced.  We called it "Breakfree" back in the day. It was a God-send.  It replaced both bore cleaner and gun oil and shortened weapon cleaning time tremendously.  I'm new to armor and swords, but knew immediately that CLP would be what I'll be using.

Breakfree is the company that produced CLP  until it was bought out by Safariland.

Beat me to it

[Sir Martyn]

Oh this is excellent - I have to get some CLP and Eagle One tomorrow - can I get both at Wal-Mart or would a gun shop be a better bet?

I used paste wax after RenFaire on my plate harness and it seems to be holding up fine, but I'm concerned about the inside surfaces as well where the protective paint on the unpolished surfaces has scatted/worn off.  And then there are the swords....

[Don Jorge]

Which CLP type do you use? I found all types CLP - 4 and CLP - 5? It seems like it comes in different forms...does it matter? Which produces the least mess...also is CLP okay for indoor use or should I take my armor out to the balcony?

[Sir James A]

Oh this is excellent - I have to get some CLP and Eagle One tomorrow - can I get both at Wal-Mart or would a gun shop be a better bet?

I used paste wax after RenFaire on my plate harness and it seems to be holding up fine, but I'm concerned about the inside surfaces as well where the protective paint on the unpolished surfaces has scatted/worn off.  And then there are the swords....

Sorry, missed this one before. CLP I have only found at gun store. RemOil can be found at Walmart in the gun section, and I've used it a year or two now without trouble.

I used spray-on truck bed liner on my inner surfaces. When it wears off, clean the rust and respray it. I'd say no more than a year or two - the surfaces getting worn off are being rubbed off, and as long as that continues, it will rub itself clean with usage. Maybe paint it at the end of the season if it's bad enough.

Which CLP type do you use? I found all types CLP - 4 and CLP - 5? It seems like it comes in different forms...does it matter? Which produces the least mess...also is CLP okay for indoor use or should I take my armor out to the balcony?

Breakfree CLP, it's owned by a new company (Safari). I've seen a number of different numbers tagged after the CLP part but never seen any functional difference between them, always just referred to as CLP. Spray is the only form I've ever seen.

It smells, so, I'd do it outside, unless you like the smell, in which case, use it indoors .... then toss out your deodorant and just give yourself a nice little oil coating - sweat will just slide right off!

[Don Jorge]

So aerosol is fine? I have seen liquid and aerosol...

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

[Sir James A]

So aerosol is fine? I have seen liquid and aerosol...

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Spray can is what I use for both CLP and RemOil - no problems. Oil is oil, just a question of how messy do you want to be applying it.

[Don Jorge]

So, I just remembered I had some Skanunu bearing cleaner/lube at home from my longboarding days...this stuff was amazing a lubricating my bearings and making sure they didnt rust when skating in the rain...I wonder how it would hold up as oil for armor...

Check it out:
http://skanunu.com/index.asp

I have this type:
http://shop.skanunu.com/Skanunu-2oz-Bearing-Cleaner-Lube-SKA-BCL-2OZ.htm

[Sir Nate]

Ok ive been able to get alot of black corrosion out of my sword, but there still some stuff that looks like a sort of very thin dirt. Ill try and get pics but my camera has trouble picking up the corrosion.

[Mike W.]

it's most likely rust pitting, in which case it's rather permanent unless you grind it.

[Sir Nate]

it's most likely rust pitting, in which case it's rather permanent unless you grind it.

I think you may be right. I will just have to keep a watchful eye and take good care. Oil, or coat of polish. Just something to protect the steel.