Miscellaneous > The Market Square
Wanted: Brass Rivets
Sir James A:
--- Quote from: Spinal on 2013-10-23, 07:58:14 ---Rivets found in the end :)
Now I just need to figure out how to set them...
--- End quote ---
Depends if you want to hold something in place solidly, or if it's a pivot/articulating rivet. I can tell you either one. Might have time to make a video this weekend, though it's realllllly hard to do alone. Been meaning to do so, since I need to replace straps on my greaves anyway, and doing one articulation rivet for a video only takes a few minutes.
Spinal:
Hold something in place solidly please!
I've wasted 5 rivets already... I think they are too long (they keep bending), but I've cut them at 1.5x the diameter of the rivet + the thickness of the materials. Maybe the leather isn't providing enough "support" for the sides?
If you do make a video, I'll be ever indebted to you!
M.
Sir James A:
--- Quote from: Spinal on 2013-10-23, 14:26:03 ---Hold something in place solidly please!
I've wasted 5 rivets already... I think they are too long (they keep bending), but I've cut them at 1.5x the diameter of the rivet + the thickness of the materials. Maybe the leather isn't providing enough "support" for the sides?
If you do make a video, I'll be ever indebted to you!
M.
--- End quote ---
Okay, that one is somewhat easier than articulating.
If it's a domed head, it's best if it is sitting inside a dimple to keep it from moving around. Clip it off so that it is about as high above the washer as the diameter of the shaft, if not slightly less.
I like to clip mine off with a pair of bolt cutters. It leaves a nice "/\" on top.
I like to use a ball peen (domed head) hammer.
I like to start by tapping down on the outer edges at the top of the "/\". It mashes easily, and helps keep the washer held down in place.
After that, it's mostly a mushroom it out process. Once the washer is held down enough, work the sharp edge of the "/\" down a bit, then give the center of the rivet some solid smacks. That will swell the shank of the rivet so that it holds in place better. After that, keep tapping it down and "spreading" it a bit. What you want in the end is to "squish" the material out into something sort of like a countersunk screw head. Somewhat like "\=/", but where the top of it is flush. Just make sure you don't thin it out too much, or it won't hold as well.
I've seen some people say to make more of a "dome" on the inside too, instead of flat. I find flat easier, and I see flat on actual period pieces as well.
If they keep bending, it's likely they are too long. If it isn't that, then my guess is that it's not being held directly upright, and you're striking too hard and too far off center. I get bends when they are too long, primarily something like trying to go through canvas + steel + leather for shield strapping.
Spinal:
Thanks - in this case it's steel-leather-leather-washer - so quite thick. I'll try again at some point, maybe trying to hit a little less hard. Don't have a ball hammer, but if I keep failing I may have to try that...
Sir James A:
I'd highly suggest steel washers, and not leather washers.
I can do articulation rivets with a regular claw hammer in a pinch. The solid ones don't go as well, but some people can do it. I'm not great with rivets, but, I'm passable. A ball peen hammer runs about $5 or so for a cheap one in the states, probably can find one for around 10 euros or less over there. You can find nice gel handles and such for $35 (50 euros) and up, but if it isn't a constant use thing, cheap one works fine.
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