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Author Topic: Surcoat/Tabard  (Read 25929 times)

Sir Edward

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #15 on: 2011-11-03, 13:56:02 »
It is a surcoat, from my understanding the differance being a tabbard is not joined together on the sides.

Yes, this is my understanding as well.
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Leganoth

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #16 on: 2011-11-04, 00:08:12 »
Gentlemen, as I asked acted as the liaison for James with the seamstress who did my last three surcoats I am happy to do the same for you both. I am at your service.  ;)
Wait what do you mean
Sorry after I reread my original post I realized that I used the wrong wording...happens when I post prior to the second cup of coffee kicking in! ;)
As to my meaning: I was offering to serve as a go-between for anyone on this forum with the seamstress I used for my last three surcoats.  :)

Oh haha, sure thatd be great, theres no seamstresses around here. If she did make it would it be able to ship over here?

Sir Brian

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #17 on: 2011-11-04, 07:20:54 »
Sure I could mail it too you on the left coast. With insurance priority mail it should run anywhere from $6 - $13 if I have to purchase the mailer envelope at the post office.  :)
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Sir James A

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #18 on: 2011-11-04, 16:40:37 »
It is a surcoat, from my understanding the differance being a tabbard is not joined together on the sides.

Yes, this is my understanding as well.

Mine as well. From what I've seen, Tabards are popular in the late, late era - towards the "Musketeer" (rapier/classical fencing) times.
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Leganoth

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #19 on: 2011-11-05, 01:52:20 »
Sure I could mail it too you on the left coast. With insurance priority mail it should run anywhere from $6 - $13 if I have to purchase the mailer envelope at the post office.  :)

Well sure that could work, then i could mail back paying you back or mail you prior to you sending it

Sir John of Felsenbau

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #20 on: 2012-02-03, 14:17:35 »
As you can see from my "knight of the week" thread, I have so many surcoats, I can equipt my own Army of Knights. Each surcoat was sewn by hand by me, and has a coat of arms of the knight that I have researched.

I recently was doing one that originated in "Roxburg, Scotland" and much to my surprise, I found that one of the first settlers in Roxborough (or Felsenbau in german) was from Roxburgh, Scotland. As a matter of fact, Roxborough's first name was Roxburgh, named after his home land.

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Sir William

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #21 on: 2012-02-03, 15:38:58 »
Sir John, what pattern do you use when you sew your surcoats?
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Sir James A

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #22 on: 2012-02-04, 06:27:05 »
I found that one of the first settlers in Roxborough (or Felsenbau in german) was from Roxburgh, Scotland. As a matter of fact, Roxborough's first name was Roxburgh, named after his home land.

Wow, that's a mouth full. Is it a regional / dialect difference between Roxborough and Roxburgh? They seem similar enough I'd think they are the same.
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Sir John of Felsenbau

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #23 on: 2012-02-04, 15:17:40 »
Sir William,

The surcoats are quite simple, so I just sort of winged it in making them. Although I did take the liberty of sewing the sides together at with wait for a few inches. It's not the way surcoats were made, but it looks much better and the sides don't move to give a sloppy look.

Sir James,

Well, in Scotland it was spelled various ways as time went on. I guess one main difference was why the name was chosen. Roxburgh in Scotland, in galeic came from "dark castle" while here where I live it was first named Roxburgh by an early settler from Roxburgh, Scotland who named his estate after his homeland. But later Johannes Kelpius (known as the Hermit of the Ridge) in a letter used the term: "Rocks-burrow" after the foxes holes and rocks he encounted when he built a sanctuary for himself in the area. That sanctuary still remains! When the area became a township in 1707, it took its name from Johannes Kelpius, but changed it to Roxborough, even though Roxborough was NEVER a borough.

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« Last Edit: 2012-02-04, 15:19:21 by Sir John of Felsenbau »
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Sir Edward

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #24 on: 2012-02-05, 14:26:45 »
The surcoats are quite simple, so I just sort of winged it in making them. Although I did take the liberty of sewing the sides together at with wait for a few inches. It's not the way surcoats were made, but it looks much better and the sides don't move to give a sloppy look.

I'm assuming the part I bolded above was ment to say "at the waist"? If not, then I'm not sure what you had intended to type. :)

Actually the surcoats worn over mail were joined at the side, or only partially slit from the armpit down to close with laces. From the bottom, the only slits were front and rear, primarily to facilitate sitting on a horse.

The tabbards worn with later period armor, after plate had become more standard, could sometimes be open on the sides and held together with a belt.

A jupon worn during the transitional period of the 14th century would be very close fitting and not much longer than waist length (sometimes just covering the hips, sometimes not), and these would have a lace closure somewhere, probably on the sides.

Long story short, the long surcoats should be mostly closed at the side and have a narrow arm-hole if possible. So I think you're doing them right. Ideally they should flare out wider at the base than at the waist, which can either be done with the shape of the front/rare panels, or with triangular gores inset at the bottom.
« Last Edit: 2012-02-05, 14:27:36 by Sir Edward »
Sir Ed T. Toton III
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Sir William

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #25 on: 2012-02-08, 20:34:08 »
Is it historical for surcoats to be somewhat fitted?  I can't remember where I read that the contemporary ones which are sort of straight up and down with little emphasis on the outline underneath are just that...contemporary. 

However, from what Sir Edward described above, sort of makes the case- at least that it should be more than a 't-tunic'. 
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Sir Edward

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #26 on: 2012-02-08, 20:42:02 »

I think historically they varied quite a bit in terms of how well body-formed they were, but I'd guess that they usually were pretty well fitted by the 14th C. Earlier, it might have varied quite a bit more.
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SirNathanQ

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #27 on: 2012-02-08, 21:41:30 »
What is the best material for a surcoat? Does anyone wear one over riveted maille? What fabric, in what wieght hold up the best?
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Sir Brian

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #28 on: 2012-02-08, 22:05:23 »
Medium weight linen holds up really well. Especially if you have two layers like mine. Silk is good as well but beware white silk as it soaks up EVERYTHING including the bled out dye from other fabrics. Linen is really the best though. :)
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Sir Ulrich

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Re: Surcoat/Tabard
« Reply #29 on: 2012-02-08, 23:38:03 »
I still lack a surcoat that fits me. Got a GDFB linen templar one thats oversized and baggy on me, I have yet to meet someone who can resize it. Thing is I dont think white would look good over black maille unless I did teutonic knight. I also have a surcoat thats made of cotton thats currently waiting to be sewn but it's white so I may dye it. Dont know anyone who sews though so I dont really have as many resources as you guys do.