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13th and 14th c. Kits
Sir Ulrich:
I'd go with viking leathercraft shoes with a lugged sole. The reason I suggest those is because you can lace the feet of the chausses between the lugs which makes it harder for them to come undone. http://www.vikingleathercrafts.com/period-footwear.html
I use the 12th century boots myself I also have a pair of the 13th/14th ones but they were too thin at the toes which is why I switched to the 12th century ones, the toes are wider on those as I have wide feet. Could always get period turn shoes but they wear out quickly on rocks and pavement so the viking ones could suffice.
Aiden of Oreland:
--- Quote from: Sir Ulrich on 2014-02-20, 02:43:43 ---I'd go with viking leathercraft shoes with a lugged sole. The reason I suggest those is because you can lace the feet of the chausses between the lugs which makes it harder for them to come undone. http://www.vikingleathercrafts.com/period-footwear.html
I use the 12th century boots myself I also have a pair of the 13th/14th ones but they were too thin at the toes which is why I switched to the 12th century ones, the toes are wider on those as I have wide feet. Could always get period turn shoes but they wear out quickly on rocks and pavement so the viking ones could suffice.
--- End quote ---
A great suggestion, for no one will be really looking at my feet really. Let alone see past the chausses. I can save the time appropriate ones for my soft kit. So Ulrich, what is your opinion on the link I provided? Do you think it is a worth while purchase?
Sir Ulrich:
Thats a decent hauberk but the problem is it's flat ring rather than round. Flat ring round riveted has issues with being a cheesegrater to gambesons. I would probably go after the round ring round riveted 8MM with solid flat punched rings. Thats the closest thing to 12th and 13th century maille around.
http://allbeststuff.com/c-medieval-chainmail-armor/c-chain-mail-shirt-coif-set/Round-Riveted-Links-with-Solid-Washers-Chain-Mail-Full-Suit-Body-Armor
I would go after that one as it has the integrated mittens but not the coif. Separate coifs did exist for the late 1200s and it's more versatile. The mittens will need the palm removed and leather added though. The sleeves also taper so you wont really have to tailor it. It also comes with rings to tailor the coif with and whatnot and it's a full set. All sold for a lower price than what my hauberk cost me ALONE.
Aiden of Oreland:
What kind of leather would one use for his mittens? And from where?
Mike W.:
Here is what Joe Metz had to say about mittens:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/8765199@N07/2577352573/#in/set-72157606473530717
-Buy some lambskin/deerskin mittens that fit your hand, nothing fancy or expensive. I used unlined mittens. The main objective is to have the back of your hand covered so that the mail isn’t laying directly on your skin. If you are planning on sparring you best use suede welding mitts, but it will make it more difficult to slit the palm. I cut the elastic gathering out of my mittens; no modern fibers/nylon if I can help it!
-Fashion your mail so that it fits over the top of the mitten. This is relatively easy if you are familiar with working butted mail and a bit more challenging with riveted mail.
-To attach the mail to the mitten you have a couple options. You can sew the edge with a running stitch along the outer edge of the mitten. This is somewhat time-consuming, but really achieves the better result. The other option, if you are working with butted mail is to sink the outer rings of the mail itself through the leather of the mitten. This is what I did in the example above. Again, this works for butted mail because you can open the rings and close them again. Solid, riveted mail does not allow for this technique.
As for the slit in the palm, there apparently were various different configurations, vertical, horizontal, diagonal, close to the wrist and more distal. I picked the midline vertical slit because it seemed to be the most user friendly. The placement of the slit depends on the size of your hand. I was careful not to cut the slit too long which would leave the palm too “floppy”, but the opening has to be big enough to allow your hand to pass through while your arm is in the sleeve with a gambeson on. You also must consider how the mitten will hang on your wrist with the muffler pulled back.
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