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Screw on pommel help.

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Sir Edward:

I don't own examples from all of these makers, so I can't speak to the quality personally:

Darksword Armory:  http://darksword-armory.com/

Valiant Armory: http://www.valiant-armoury.com/swords.php

Armour Class: http://www.armourclass.co.uk/Data/Pages/Medieval_Main2.htm

Windlass Steelcrafts is very hit-or-miss, but if you're mainly looking for the looks and not the durability, they can be OK.

Same deal with Hanwei. They're usually not bad for the price, but it varies.

Del Tin makes nice historical designs, but they tend toward the heavy side on nearly every model.

I've heard generally good things about Lutel, but have never owned one.

If you look at KOA, they have a lot of these choices at good prices, including the manufacturers above: http://www.kultofathena.com/swords-medieval.asp

Chuck G.:
+1 on Sir Edward's advice.

Most of the Windlass pieces do tend to be inaccurate in terms of looks - mostly designed to appeal to a crowd that is less informed about historical accuracy. Deepeekas are suprisingly a bit better, actually. Hanweis look good though I've not handled any.

I do recommend Del Tins as they look really good (some are quite excellent in terms of detail) and generally well built and sturdy. They can be heavier than they should be, though.

I would especially recommend Kult of Athena (KoA) for any of the above, including Arms & Armor and Albion (?), as they have the best prices. Also, the descriptions feature multiple good quality pictures from several angles to get a better feel for the piece.

Chuck G.:

--- Quote from: Sir Nate on 2014-01-04, 22:40:32 ---Maybe I should just start saving for an Albion. 75 bucks. Not a huge loss.

--- End quote ---

If you can get access to a bench vise, hacksaw, files, and a drill you could do a minimal modification that would at least allow the tang to go through the pommel all the way, which could be either peened over or allow you to secure it with a separate nut. Basically, you would need to cut down the "shoulders" of the blade (i.e. where the blade and tang meet) enough so that you lengthen the tang enough to be able to go all the way through the length of the pommel with a bit extra to allow for peening or securing with a separate nut. If you can get the basic tools and are interested in tackling such a project, I can give you more information on what to do. Might be of interest to others on the forum, as well.

If you wanted to go all out, you could rework the grip, refine the cross and pommel, and do a few other details that will really make the sword stand out, but that is more work. The above is straightforward enough to be doable with a bit of support from others.

Sir James A:
The others have covered the tang and everything else very well. Only thing I have to add is that if you do fix the pommel on this one, it could be a wall hanger OR fine for dress too. I have the feeling it should be: blade, hilt/crossguard, grip, pommel, nut at the very end. Try that and see how much you have to tighten it down with.

Sir Nate:
A video I made. showing more so the pommel troubles.

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