Main > The Armoury
My Kit...14th Century for CotT (SCA Legal)
Don Jorge:
Yeah Ian, I asked for measurements already...i think they might be too small to fit over tunics and gambeson and maile
Subject: WildArmoury sale. New item
Belemrys wrote:
MattMG wrote:
M.Suprovich wrote:
New stuff for sale!
Set of splinted arms and legs. 1,2mm tempered spring steel. Good fit on a man 180-200cm tall.
Price 400$ include shipping
Hello, I like these but I am picky about my fit, could I have some info? In CM is fine.
Length over biceps (armpit to inside elbow)
Length of forearm
Length over front of tibia
Length of cuisse from knee to inside
Length of cuisse from knee to outside
What he said! I am 196 cm tall but am quite thick
Hello.
There are measurements for splinted arms and legs:
Upper leg bigger circumference ~60-65cm
Upper leg smaller circumference ~45cm
Length of upper leg ~42cm
Lower leg bigger circumference ~42-48cm
Lower leg smaller circumference ~30-35cm
Length of lower leg ~35-37cm
Upper arm bigger circumference ~ 45-50cm
Length of upper arm ~24-26cm
Lower arm bigger circumference ~ 35-40cm
Lower arm smaller circumference ~ 25-28cm
Length of lower arm ~22-24cm
If you have any questions, ask me free.
Best regards
Maxim Suprovich
WildArmoury
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Sir James A:
Maxim is a good guy and does good work. The fitment should be specifically over gambeson only. For the arms, you might have a small bit of the sleeves in the upper arm, but the elbows/lower should not be covering any mail, the mail shirt will end around your bicep area or before the elbow. I *believe*, but ask Maxim to confirm, the upper arm is "open" style, in that it isn't an enclosed "tube", and straps closed, so it will have some play in how it fits over the haubergeon. It doesn't have to close completely. I can't remember if my splint upper arms even do or don't.
And $400 for tempered spring steel is a REALLY good deal for full set of arms and legs. I think I paid more than that just for stainless (which is NOT tempered and is heavier).
Don Jorge:
I will check my measurements later (wife just got out if surgery) but pretty sure my thunder thighs will make it impossible. Last night at sca fighter practice no ones legs fit me :-/
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Don Jorge:
So unfortunately those legs and arms are sold already :/
How do you guys feel about spring stainless from a historical point of view. Sir Ian said on facebook that spring stainless is closer to what was around back in the 14th century than say mild steel (I am assuming because of the tempering process?). Should I just take longer and get my kit made in Spring Steel?
Ian:
--- Quote from: Belemrys on 2013-11-25, 20:35:35 ---So unfortunately those legs and arms are sold already :/
How do you guys feel about spring stainless from a historical point of view. Sir Ian said on facebook that spring stainless is closer to what was around back in the 14th century than say mild steel (I am assuming because of the tempering process?). Should I just take longer and get my kit made in Spring Steel?
--- End quote ---
No no.... I said Spring Steel is closer to what they had historically... not spring stainless. Introducing chromium to steel to make it 'stainless' is in no way historic. Mild steel is also not close to historic steel.
Spring steel and spring stainless are not the same thing. I can't ever advocate any type of stainless steel for historical use. It's purely for convenience for the corrosion resistance.
Spring steel on the other hand can be hardened and tempered like the hardening processes used in good historic armor and best replicates what they were wearing. Modern cold rolled mild steel is by definition unable to be hardened and tempered like spring steel. It has to be made too thick and heavy to replicate the strength in properly heat treated spring steel.
But don't take it from me! Take it from Jeffrey Hedgecock, one of the world's finest armorer's:
--- Quote from: Jeffrey Hedgecock ---Over my 25 year career so far, I have worked in all three materials; mild, spring and stainless, though of the pieces I've made, the fewest have been in stainless.
Where historical accuracy is concerned, although all three are modern alloys, only 1050 spring steel approximates better quality historical steels. Stainless is the least accurate because of one simple fact- it doesn't rust. There were no non-rusting steels historically.
Metallographic steel analysis and study by Alan Williams and Anthony deReuck suggests that 1050 spring steel is the closest modern equivalent to historical steel of above-average quality. That is, steel the best armours were made from.
In order of durability, low to high, that is "ability to resist impact" and return to original form, it goes mild steel, stainless, then spring steel of at least 40 points of carbon (when properly heat treated). Most armourers who know how to make historically correct armour (both in form and function) -don't- work in stainless, for a variety of reasons. I personally only work in spring steel now because with the amount of work I put into my pieces, I want them to last a good long time, and the best way to ensure that is to make them of 1050 spring and heat treat them well. I find mild too soft, even if work-hardened, and stainless is just plain too hard on the tools and my body, and doesn't yield a result I'm happy with, in color and overall "look". My experience has also suggested that generally speaking, the people who want stainless armour really aren't interested in properly maintaining their armour (hence the stainless), and I believe that for armour to function properly over time it should be regularly maintained and attended to. The people I have met that like stainless armour prefer avoiding all maintenance and repair whatsoever. For me, there's no such thing as "maintenance-free" armour.
I personally believe typical stainless steels (that doesn't include "spring stainless") will never approach the toughness and durability of spring steels like 1050. Typical stainless alloys just can't be heat treated like 1050 can, so will never be as tough. In my opinion, if you want armour that will handle hard use and last a long time, there is no better steel than 1050.
Cheers,
Jeffrey Hedgecock
Historic Enterprises, Inc.
WorldJoust Tournaments™
--- End quote ---
That's from this thread on MyArmoury.com
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