Main > The Armoury
Antique 16th century plate legs - or at least, they look like it (RemOil is BAD)
Joshua Santana:
--- Quote ---Thats why I use olive oil to oil my armor. I sweat all over my coif and it still didn't rust thanks to the oil I put on it. I cant use anything synthetic as I was totally allergic to synthetic oil on armor.
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Interesting.
--- Quote ---Yeah, this has been happening with my MercTailor gauntlets as well. My troubles began when I switched to the spray gun oil. I'm going to go back to mineral oil.
Mine is a different brand of gun oil, but something I noticed on the label is that it's synthetic. I wonder if there's something in it that reacts with trace amounts of the CLR left on the metal. I never had much trouble when I cleaned the CLR off with a thorough wipe-down, and then WD-40 and wipe-down again, and then put mineral oil over it.
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Quite interesting and lessons for me as well. ;) If I had to choose an oil for my Kit, WD-40. ;)
Ian:
--- Quote from: Joshua Santana on 2012-06-03, 12:49:07 ---Quite interesting and lessons for me as well. ;) If I had to choose an oil for my Kit, WD-40. ;)
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WD-40 is NOT an oil and will provide NO lasting protection. WD-40 is good, but it evaporates rather quickly and would require re-application very frequently. Like Sir Edward mentioned, after the WD-40, you wipe it clean and THEN apply an oil. The WD-40 helps eliminate all semblance of water or moisture on the surface of the metal. The oil applied afterward keeps it off.
My oil of choice is BreakFree CLP (when I'm done using it on my guns) and haven't had any issues. I've used it on firearms forever, and started using it on armor. I've used it on mild steel as well as spring steel parts, and I use it on my swords as well, and have always had fantastic results. (It's also recommended by Albion! http://www.albion-swords.com/swords/albion/sword-care.htm)
Sir James, you could always go for the 16th Century Spanish Conquistador in the humid jungles of the New World look? :) I kid I kid....
Sir Edward:
--- Quote from: Ian on 2012-06-03, 13:05:37 ---WD-40 is NOT an oil and will provide NO lasting protection. WD-40 is good, but it evaporates rather quickly and would require re-application very frequently. Like Sir Edward mentioned, after the WD-40, you wipe it clean and THEN apply an oil. The WD-40 helps eliminate all semblance of water or moisture on the surface of the metal. The oil applied afterward keeps it off.
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Someone conducted a test recently, by applying a variety of different oils, waxes, etc on swords and seeing which resisted rust the best. WD-40 was in his top-5, but the problem with his experiment is that he was comparing results after only 30 days. WD-40 evaporates within that timespan, so you'd have to reapply it every few weeks for this to be sustainable, as Sir Ian pointed out.
WD-40 is really good to use before applying your oil, though, and here's why. "WD" stands for "Water Displacement" (and the 40 comes from the fact that it was their 40th formula). It's designed to get into all of the little microscopic nooks and crannies in the surface of the steel and displace the moisture. The wipe-down is needed to remove the moisture. Then you can apply your sealant.
You can actually safely wash your sword blades and armor pieces with soapy water to get old oils off, as long as you get the soap off, let it dry for a short while, and then thoroughly hit it with the WD-40 before re-sealing. If you get water on your steel and don't use WD-40, you're risking sealing moisture into those microscopic cracks, and that's where rust will begin.
Thorsteinn:
In period the solution to rust prevention was a mix of beeswax and olive oil for some.
SirNathanQ:
Also they painted their armour. Prevents rust and looks awesome!
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