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Scabbards

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Sir Gerard de Rodes:
Truly a thing of beauty Sir Brian  ;)
G.

Sir Humphrey:
Sir Brian,

I realize that this thread is very old, but I have a question. I'm glad I found this thread because I was on the same waive length as far as heat bending the wood.  After soaking the slats in boiling water, could you clamp it around the sword without glueing it and allow it to cool to the shape?  My though is, that if the sword seizes in the slats or is too loose, some very thin spacers could be added when it is glued up and allow more space.  Thanks.

Sir Brian:
Sir Humphrey,
We never worry or mind about resurrecting old threads here since as new members join it's good to update or review some of the information that has wondered these halls of cyberspace! ;)

I didn't glue my two heat bended wood slats until they were thoroughly dried out (about 3 days). This allows for any weird warping the wood may do as it dries as what happened on my second attempt. ;)

If you find the blade too loose before you glue the slats together then I recommend you cut and glue a couple of pieces of felt on the inside of the scabbard mouth. If it is too tight you can just sand it a little more before gluing the slats together.

Sir Humphrey:
Thanks Sir Brian,

One other question:  Did you keep the sword blade in the wood for those two days as it dried.  If not, how long did you leave it in before removing it?

Thanks again for the great info you provided here!

Sir Brian:
I removed the blade after I had set enough of the clamps to retain the proper shape and still remove the sword. The reason I did it that way was because it wasn't my sword and I was concerned about the blade getting rusted since it was Sir Edward's which he had loaned to me for that purpose because the blade I had on order was the identical. If I had my blade on hand when I was making it then I would've left the blade in the scabbard to ensure it dried in the correct shape. ;)

Are you going to do your own leather work on your scabbard as well?

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