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John:
I have a pullover gambeson, from GDFB. I have also worn a gambeson with metal buckles on the front. I've worn them with butted maille. Snagging was not an issue. More important is:-

1) Does the gambeson allow you to raise your arms above your head, easily? It's hard to tell from the photos on Jolly Knight's armoury what type of armhole they have. I've slit open the underside of the armhole on my gambeson to make it easier to raise my arms. So ask if their gambesons have an exaggerated armhole, or 'le grande assiette sleeve'. See http://www.revivalclothing.com/14thcenturylinengambeson.aspx for an example of this type of armhole.
2) Ensure your gambeson is a snug fit, that way your metal armour can be made smaller, and lighter. My pullover gambeson is so snug that I prefer to get someone to help me, rather than spend 5 minutes struggling out of it!

Possibly riveted maille may snag? I've heard that GDFBs dome riveted maille is particularly hard on undergarments, but that their wedge rivets are better. Maybe a case for finding a young squire who's prepared to sit down with a file for half a day.

Jolly Knight tailor make everything. http://jollyknight.com.ua/armoury/conditions.php says "It`s not just a catalogue of commodities which you can get at once, it is a workshop where all of things are executed in size individually for every customer.". On that page is a form for writing down your measurements. They specifically offer a custom gambeson, see http://jollyknight.com.ua/armoury/product_info.php?cPath=23&products_id=88

$150 buckaroos for a gambie seems pretty dinkum to me. The one I got from GDFB was $220, didn't fit, and cost a further $80 to have tailored. A Jolly Knight gambie is on my shopping list. After DBK has made scabbards for a couple of Albions I have on order, and after I buy a helmet from Jolly Knight... :)

Sir Ulrich:
Yeah, thats next on my list now that I know it's custom made. Only hope my Icefalcon dome riveted maille doesn't wear it down a ton cause then I'd need a new one. Gonna get the padded chausses as well and that would work, just worries me that I may grow out of it despite being an extremely thin person myself.

John:
The issue of rivets damaging under garments is one of poor manufacturing quality. My statement about this is only with regard to maille from GDFB, and doesn't necessarily reflect other suppliers. I believe many suppliers, including GDFB get their maille from India, and may therefore be of the same quality. For more on this read what Dan Howard has to say at MyArmoury http://www.myarmoury.com/talk/viewtopic.php?t=19189.

I put it to you that there is noway our ancestors would have accepted having to continuously buy gambesons! Not when a haubergon cost as much as a new midrange car! price statement based on a doco I saw years ago, take with grain of salt

Sir Ulrich:
My maille is 9MM anyway which is usually lighter and softer on gambesons, it's the 6MM stuff that tends to be rougher on gambesons as well as has more rivets more wear. I would assume a linen gambeson would be more durable than a cotton one though, correct me if I'm wrong.

John:
Not a scooby doo, mate. I'm guessing that thickness of fibre, and density of weave, are also significant factors. I have patched my GDFB gambeson, most of the damage has been from grappling, but I seldom wear maille. If a $150 gambeson lasts three years, then it has a weekly cost of $1. You can't feed a starving child in a third world country for that! Question is, are you a show pony, or a real man? Perhaps buy two gambies, one for war and one parade.

Expect even high quality equipment to need repair. The prudent modern soldier carries kit to repair his pack and webbing, just on the off chance that they get a hole or two (it's a real downer if you lose your toilet roll because of a hole in your pack). Ancient garments, such as gambesons are no different.

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