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Main => The Armoury => Topic started by: Ian on 2012-04-13, 23:27:40

Title: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Ian on 2012-04-13, 23:27:40
Can anyone point me to a decent pattern for a late 14th century heraldic surcoat that side-laces? 

Here's an image of David Teague wearing his, and that's what I'm after reproducing (the blue surcoat):
(http://i45.photobucket.com/albums/f74/HRG2006/3%20Barons%20Fair%202009/Harnessfightingdemo.jpg)


Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Thorsteinn on 2012-04-13, 23:45:56
Here!

(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51W00egucJL._SL500_AA300_.jpg)

http://www.amazon.com/Period-Patterns-Medieval-Military-Garments/dp/B00188UGDE/ref=pd_sim_ac_1 (http://www.amazon.com/Period-Patterns-Medieval-Military-Garments/dp/B00188UGDE/ref=pd_sim_ac_1)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Ian on 2012-04-14, 00:11:40
Thank you sir!
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir James A on 2012-04-14, 00:16:38
Are you going to make one yourself or is it for a tailor? I can give you the contact info of the seamstress who made mine:

(http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t8/jba3/medieval/armor/surcoats/th_2011-12-21193133.jpg) (http://i156.photobucket.com/albums/t8/jba3/medieval/armor/surcoats/2011-12-21193133.jpg)

(same one I'm wearing in my avatar)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Ian on 2012-04-14, 01:04:31
My wife will be making it
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-04-16, 20:47:25
I have a red one; think they're called jupons at some point, that's what mine is.  Dagged front in the castle style, or whatever you call it; I got mine from the Morgana Collection, an ebaY retailer who makes all of the gear he sells.  Or so he says.  lol  Good, sturdy stuff though.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir James A on 2012-04-16, 22:04:34
My wife will be making it

In that case, I second the link Rauttskegg posted - assuming you post pics when it's done. :)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Ian on 2012-05-13, 23:00:07
So, we decided to wing it on the pattern.  We bought linen and I stood there in gambeson / maille / breastplate to get the proportions right.

I decided to go with felt for the charges and we'll sew them to the base garment.  We may add some detailing to the charges using sewn on black thread, but we'll see.  Aside from sewing on the devices, we need to add lacing eyelets on the side to give it the form fitted look of the late 14th century.  Since there were no such thing as metal eyelets / grommets like a modern garment would use for lacing, I'm undecided if I want to try and do this the hand-stitched way, which is a giant pain in the butt, or just use metal eyelets.  But this is where we're at so far:

(https://fbcdn-sphotos-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/535072_3902349354817_1161690734_33732477_754337132_n.jpg)

Hahaha, and I realize now that I laid the crossed swords on upside down... good thing my wife didn't sew them on yet! :)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2012-05-14, 01:46:34
haahhahha awesome
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Edward on 2012-05-14, 02:44:58
It's looking fantastic! Yes, definitely correct the orientation and then sew it together. :)

Personally I'd just go with the metal grommets. It won't be that visible... but then, I have a higher tolerance for cheating than a lot of other folks do. Another option is to do a hybrid, and hand-stitch thread over the grommets to hide them. It doesn't save much work, but it does make a nice strong hole.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Brian on 2012-05-14, 13:32:51
I had the largest metal eyelets on my surcoat and they were a PITA. They kept coming apart so I had the seamstress that originally made it stitch around the holes so they are like super-sized button holes and it not only looks more period but is holding up very well. You can just make them out in the attached picture which I also tried to highlight and enlarge. Hope it helps!  :)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-14, 14:16:50
Very nice Surcoat Sir Ian!  I like it!
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Gerard de Rodes on 2012-05-14, 16:47:16
Looking good Sir Ian.
I would definitely sew around the brass lace holes to cover them up.
G.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-05-15, 15:46:43
Nicely done, kudos to your wife, Sir Ian.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-15, 17:51:42
Quote
Nicely done, kudos to your wife, Sir Ian.

Indeed  :D
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Patrick on 2012-05-17, 02:53:02
Very nice!  It's funny, I've been kicking around doing appliques in felt for my surcoat, but wasn't sure about the "periodness" of it.  Since your stuff is always spot on, looks like I need to grab some felt!
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Ian on 2012-05-17, 03:14:22
Thank you, but be forewarned, I cannot vouch for the accuracy of appliqued felt. I'm really just guessing.  It was that or paint, and I didn't want to ruin my wife's efforts with a bad paint job by me.  I know felted wool was around, however, it's use on heraldic surcoats is purely a guess on my part.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Edward on 2012-05-17, 11:55:46
Silk appliques are period, but I have no idea about felt. (with the usual caveat that silk was super-expensive at the time)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2012-05-17, 13:43:53
i have a feeling if they were not silk they were wool. linen color tends to run when wet and unravel when sewn. Felt would have meant wool felt. cotton would not have been used in Europe yet. I believe it was found in the Med. area as curtains.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Brian on 2012-05-17, 13:48:46
Silk appliques are period, but I have no idea about felt. (with the usual caveat that silk was super-expensive at the time)

And like linen not always colorfast!  ;)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-17, 14:31:25
I think wool or silk would be more period accurate but then again, linen is the caveat when it comes to historical garments.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-05-17, 14:36:56
I keep going back to the idea that the surcoats were made of silk as well, but can't remember where I read that.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Edward on 2012-05-17, 15:32:17

Silk, wool, and linen are all appropriate. The problem with silk is it's less durable, and was ridiculously expensive. An entire surcoat entirely made of it would have been more expensive than the armor in all likelihood (perhaps considerably so). Only a very wealthy knight would do that. Smaller appliques would be more affordable, but still expensive.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-05-17, 15:33:48
Ok...that makes sense to me...I'm definitely not a wealthy knight.  Not in persona or in real.  LOL

But not leather, right?
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir Edward on 2012-05-17, 15:36:58

Right, I don't think there's much evidence of leather being used for surcoats.
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-17, 18:29:11
Leather surcoates  :o  No way, I say go with linen or wool for a surcoat. 
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: SirNathanQ on 2012-05-17, 20:02:41
If anything, spare yourself the heat. Do not wear a leather surcoat!
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-18, 14:59:34
Quote
If anything, spare yourself the heat. Do not wear a leather surcoat!

Indeed!
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-05-18, 15:45:56
Awwww!!!  They look really cool, but probably aren't.  lol

(http://i670.photobucket.com/albums/vv64/ebonpaladin/Armor/RavenswoodKnightlySurcoat.jpg)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-18, 15:57:24
Quote
Awwww!!!  They look really cool, but probably aren't.  lol

NOOOOOOOO!  RUN AWAY SIR WILLIAM!  ;)
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Sir William on 2012-05-18, 19:56:09
I'm not, I'm not...I'm no period snob but I'm not interested in straying too far away either.  lol
Title: Re: Late 14th C Heraldic Surcoat
Post by: Joshua Santana on 2012-05-19, 14:14:12
Quote
I'm not, I'm not...I'm no period snob but I'm not interested in straying too far away either.  lol

whew!