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Main => The Armoury => The Workshop => Topic started by: Sir Rodney on 2014-02-23, 04:15:18

Title: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-02-23, 04:15:18
The idea behind this project is to make a quilted aventail for my bascinet.  I will be using modern materials and modern methods for this first attempt.

Since my bascinet is a (heavily modified) mass produced piece, my mail aventail is blackened / butted from Icefalcon, and my budget is tiny; the end product will not be “living history” acceptable.

My goals are to dress up my current bascinet, add a level of blunt trauma protection, and allow my mail aventail to flow better when turning my head.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-02-23, 04:16:18
The materials are (real) linen fabric, cotton & bamboo fiber batting (50%/50%), and heavy duty “button hole” thread.   As luck would have it, linen was on sale this week!   :)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Ian on 2014-02-23, 15:39:30
Scott, I used virtually the same materials (just 100% cotton batting instead of the bamboo blend) and I use mine for living history.  Even if you machine stitch it, no one will really see those parts anyway.  It's well worth doing this project, I love mine.  I totally just winged the pattern though, and it took some fudging here and there and last minute cutting and re-sewing to make it fit right.  A flat quilted aventail does not translate well to a 3d bloused aventail as I found out :)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2014-02-23, 17:57:37
yeahhhhhhhhh awesome. cant wait to see it
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-02-27, 06:05:38
As for most sewing projects where a pattern is not readily available, I’ll create a test piece (or six) before using my good fabrics.

I know a simple circle is not the correct answer, but I’ll start there.  I cut out a circle a little larger than the circumference of my aventail fully stretched out (approx. 1").  Then I’ll cut a smaller circle out of the center, this being about the circumference of the bascinet.

I’ll have to add a second piece to account for the 2” rise under my vervelles.  This rise is 4” for the length of the face opening.  The total length of this piece will be the circumference of the bascinet (plus seam allowance).  As always, add an extra inch for the fudge factor.  You can always trim it off later.

To make the pieces match up, I had to cut a dart (triangle, about 4” on a side) out of the circular piece of fabric .  For the final pattern I’ll have to remember to remove 4 darts of 1” length spaced equally around the circumference.

[edited for clarity]
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-02-28, 04:56:52
The initial test fit proved that I’m on the right track, but not quite there yet.

Some things I discovered:
- The fit of the fabric band over the vervelles must be perfect and tight or the leather aventail band will not fit properly.
- I need to add 2” to the exterior radius of the circular piece of fabric; even a touch more if seam allowance and padding/quilting is taken into account.
- The 4 darts will need to be approximately 1” wide by 3” long for a proper look and fit.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-10, 03:10:13
I found the “circle & ring” design lacking, so it’s back to the drawing board.  I carefully cut apart pattern #1 at the North, South East & West points (using my nose as North).

Using these pieces I came up with pattern #2 which is 4 “pieces of pizza with the point nibbled off”.  Two pieces, the left-front and right-front, extend a little longer to the center of the “pizza” to account for the mail rising up in front of the chin.

This pattern seems to fit much better.   I still need to add another inch to the outer edge of all 4 pieces and I need to add a little more height in the area near the face opening.   Even with these two minor adjustments, I feel confident moving on to the linen fabric next.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-16, 04:37:51
As my test patterns were “quick & dirty”, I traced out a measured and clean ¼ pattern on cardboard.

I was excited to cut out my pieces and get sewing until I remembered that I hadn’t pre-washed and dried my fabric.  Cutting will have to wait until tomorrow.   :(
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-20, 03:50:31
With the initial wash and dry out of the way, it’s time for cutting.  Four pieces were cut out and basted “right side” together.

The piece was then pulled down snugly over the bascinet.  Small slits had to be cut into the fabric to allow this to happen.  When everything was aligned just right, I used a fabric pencil to mark the locations of the vervelles.  These are barely visible as white dots in the second photo.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-20, 04:23:40
My my, this is coming out great!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Edward on 2014-03-20, 13:20:18

It's looking good so far!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir William on 2014-03-20, 18:43:13
I am in awe at your abilities to turn textiles into something good looking and functional; you and Ian.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-23, 01:41:37
I sewed button holes at every vervelles location.

Another test fit ensured that everything is lining up correctly.  I will have to cut away some of the face opening and ease it open a bit (white chalk line).

I then cut out and assembled an exact copy of the outer shell.  This copy will be used for the inner shell.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2014-03-23, 13:02:11
awesomeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee can't wait man
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-23, 16:40:32
Join the two pieces “right sides” together with a simple straight stitch along the outer (large circumference or “bottom”) edge.

Turn the piece right sides out and iron it even while matching all seams.  You will have to use the “horn” of the ironing board as the piece will not lay flat due to its cone or “volcano” shape.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Ian on 2014-03-23, 19:32:05
Scott, I just noticed something...

I may be seeing this wrong, but it looks like you're taking the padding all the way up to the verveilles on the outside of the helmet.  Just be careful because that will push the maille out and could interfere with the closing of your visor.  Make sure you test fit with the visor if that's what you're doing.  On my padding it protects my face, but around the sides the padding goes on the inside of the helmet so that up at the verveilles there's only maille.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-24, 02:19:52
Scott, I just noticed something...

I may be seeing this wrong, but it looks like you're taking the padding all the way up to the verveilles on the outside of the helmet.  Just be careful because that will push the maille out and could interfere with the closing of your visor.  Make sure you test fit with the visor if that's what you're doing.  On my padding it protects my face, but around the sides the padding goes on the inside of the helmet so that up at the verveilles there's only maille.

Ian, you’re absolutely correct.  I plan to stop the padding about 1 inch short of the verveilles so as to not interfere with the leather aventail support band which mounts over the fabric aventail.  You made a good point that the visor will have to be included in test fits from this point forward.  I will be padding all the way up to the “valley” between the chin and lower lip up front.

The excess fabric from the inner shell peeking from behind the outer shell will get trimmed.  I’m just not sure yet if I can fit two layers of fabric over the verveilles AND the leather aventail band.  I might have to trim the inner shell back considerably and sew it to the outer shell at the same level as the bottom edge of the bascinet.  Time (and test fits) will tell.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-24, 04:39:43
Good news, two layers of fabric will fit over the vervelles and allow for the leather aventail band to fit as well!

The inner shell excess fabric was trimmed to match the outer shell outline exactly and yet another test fit ensured all is well.

Now, on to the padding…
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Edward on 2014-03-24, 20:05:10

Looking good!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-24, 20:06:10
Awesome! Can't wait to see the end result!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Ian on 2014-03-24, 21:05:22
Looks great Scott!  The only thing I did differently is when the padding reaches the helmet, it goes on the inside of the helmet and then I stitched it to the liner.  I think your way will secure it just as well.  Let us know!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-24, 22:44:27
My first ever “selfy”, and in such poor lighting!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Patrick on 2014-03-25, 02:39:13
Looks great!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Brian on 2014-03-28, 14:25:17
Man that looks awesome! Well done! :)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-03-30, 23:24:14
I cut out the padding using my template as a guide.  You can make it as thick or thin as you wish, I chose two layers which offers some protection, but isn't too bulky.

Pin the padding between the inner and outer shells to keep it in place while you sew.  I sketched lines with a fabric pencil as a guide for sewing without being too picky on spacing or straightness.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-04-05, 03:05:00
I used a simple straight stitch to secure the padding in place.  The idea here was to mimic stuffed tubes as would’ve been done in period.

Once this was complete, I joined the inner and outer shells at the top (neck opening) with an overcast stitch.  Appearance wasn’t critical here as it will be hidden under the leather aventail band.

A fit test with the visor attached was successful.  The final step will be to sew the bottom edges of the mail and padded aventail together by hand with heavy duty thread.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Ian on 2014-04-05, 11:09:40
Looks awesome! I suggest a simple whip stitch to attach the maille. It's secure enough to keep it in place and quick to both attach and remove.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2014-04-05, 14:47:41
wow that is awesome man. please tell me you saved your patterns lol.  something to be really proud of for sure
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-04-06, 17:14:42
With two layers of fabric added under the leather aventail support band, I'm unable to string my old red cord through the vervelles.  A solid brass wire was used instead.

I started pinning the mail aventail to the padded aventail and discovered that my pattern was too long (the outer diameter was too great) at the NE, NW, SE, and SW points.  I'll have to do some last minute creative trimming and sewing before proceeding.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-04-19, 03:49:01
These are the four sections that needed to be trimmed.  After the trimming, I simply folded in the raw edges approximately ½” and joined the outer and inner shells with a running stitch.  I really didn’t want this exposed stitch on the bottom edge of the padded aventail, but such is life.

The last step was to join the bottom edges of the mail and padded aventails with synthetic waxed leather crafting thread.  As Ian suggested above, I used a simple whip stitch.

I’m attending an SCA event tomorrow and hope to have good pictures of the finished product posted soon.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-07-30, 02:26:37
While not the best photo of my finished product, this one was recently taken at Lilies War 2014.   :)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Ian on 2014-07-30, 12:30:41
Looks good Scott!  I've always loved how you did your bar-grill in the shape of a houndskull.  That's really cool!

Oh, and the guy on the right for some reason makes me think of Sir Bedivere from Monty Python. :)

(http://static.tvtropes.org/pmwiki/pub/images/witch_bedevere_2880.jpg)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-07-30, 22:22:59
Looks good Scott!  I've always loved how you did your bar-grill in the shape of a houndskull.  That's really cool!

Oh, and the guy on the right for some reason makes me think of Sir Bedivere from Monty Python. :)

HA!   :D

The guy on the right is Gareth the Black, Historian for Mercenary Company Nevermore, a brother in arms, and a great friend.  He’s been fighting in the exact same armour for more than 20 years.   :o

This year he broke down and started making plans for a new kit with lots of mail, new helm, etc.  He’s shooting for 1275 - 1300 ish.

But, being the incredibly smart newlywed that he is, he used those funds to purchase a beautiful lamellar armour for his bride (who also fights in the SCA).  ;) :)
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir James A on 2014-08-01, 01:00:18
I know the picture is for the padded aventail, but like Sir Ian, my eyes were drawn to the bar-grill pig face bascinet. Very cool!
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: scott2978 on 2014-11-15, 18:08:28
I think your harness looks damn nice Lord Rodney.

The shape of an aventail liner can look deceptively simple, but you really did a great job.
Title: Re: Making a Quilted Aventail
Post by: Sir Rodney on 2014-11-16, 05:26:08
Thanks for the kind comments all.  Now I just have to get off my butt and start the new pourpoint.   ;)