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Main => The Armoury => Topic started by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-09, 22:44:11

Title: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-09, 22:44:11
So I got down what my armor kit will be and such, but what of my civilian? Well that what I am here to discuss. I plan to make a 13th century soft kit to compliment my 13th century armor. It will consist of the basics, a kirtle, braies, tunic, cowl, chausses, garters, and a belt and period shoes and maybe a felt hat. I plan to hand make my own tunic, cowl, chausses, belt and maybe a kirtle. I will buy the rest, maybe make the other items in the future. My tunic will almost be like a honey color like in the figure below. My chausses a green(also like the figure below, but maybe not as bright of a color), and my cowl shall be brown. My shoes will not be a natural color but a dark brown. I plan to make my stuff out of "authentic" material such as wool. The kirtle and braies of coarse will be a light, white linen. I have sources in which hold the knowledge to make these items. Either in the next week or so i will start making and ordering this stuff. As I work on this project I will either refer back to this post or/and post it in the workshop. If anyone one has questions or suggestions they will be most appreciated :)
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir James A on 2014-03-10, 02:37:11
Looks like it will be an interesting color combo. I think I read this on Historic Enterprises... younger people would have brighter colors, and older would have darker or duller. Bright red or green for youth; maroon or olive for older.

Historic Enterprises and/or Revival Clothing are two good sources if you haven't decided where to buy from yet.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-10, 04:15:38
Looks like it will be an interesting color combo. I think I read this on Historic Enterprises... younger people would have brighter colors, and older would have darker or duller. Bright red or green for youth; maroon or olive for older.

Historic Enterprises and/or Revival Clothing are two good sources if you haven't decided where to buy from yet.

I was actually thinking of buying the underwear kit from and maybe some garters from Historic Enterprises. I was going to but their wool chausses but I don't like the selection. I think I also have to purchase the pour points seprate. But I wonder, can you buy wool from them? Hm, would you consider 16(by mideviel standards) to be younge or old? It was the "middle age" of the time. I plan to make all of it for the most part. I am going to visit some fabric stores in Philly, see what I can salvage, then order what I can't find from either Renaissance Fabrics or Fabric Mart. I sure hope it looks nice in the end... I have to admit, I am bad with colors. I wonder, did the way chausses were made ever change? Most sources I look at all seem to give the same generic pattern? Oh by the way! Along with this stuff I'm going to purchase a padded gambesons, coif, and kettle helm from KoA. Though, the 13th century padded gambeson will need some editing because it has buttons on it, which dod not come around till the 14th century. Which this will make a nice infantry/man-at-arms kit that will allow me to just throw maille over it when i buy the maille.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-19, 03:47:45
Ordered the underwear package from Historic Enterprises  ;D comes with braies and a shirt, and with every package comes with a free stylish arming cap. Ah, I now have the foundations for most of my kits. Whether it be armor or garb. Should be in Monday!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Don Jorge on 2014-03-19, 14:10:20
Lucky...at my size none of their kits fit...need to get it custom by Gwen and in the end it is just cheaper to make my own...so it is on the todo list...
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-19, 16:37:31
Ordered the underwear package from Historic Enterprises  ;D comes with braies and a shirt, and with every package comes with a free stylish arming cap. Ah, I now have the foundations for most of my kits. Whether it be armor or garb. Should be in Monday!

Lucky you! It's taken four weeks and I still don't have my order.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir James A on 2014-03-19, 16:59:04
Ordered the underwear package from Historic Enterprises  ;D comes with braies and a shirt, and with every package comes with a free stylish arming cap. Ah, I now have the foundations for most of my kits. Whether it be armor or garb. Should be in Monday!

Lucky you! It's taken four weeks and I still don't have my order.

Did you get the same thing? They only have some things in stock, others get made when ordered.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-19, 18:11:40
They had it on their page, but a day later they called me to say one of the items was out of stock. At least its on its way to me now. The anticipation is killing me.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-20, 00:36:52
They had it on their page, but a day later they called me to say one of the items was out of stock. At least its on its way to me now. The anticipation is killing me.

Well, I should say hopefully Monday, I didn't get any calls about it. But there is always that chance it'll come later. Btw, what did you get?

Does anyone have recommendations for 13th century German shoes? I was looking at one from Viking leather crafts, but from what I could see, they had slippery bottoms. I'm not going to make my own, yet, I'm not skilled or patient enough lol.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Ian on 2014-03-20, 00:55:25
They had it on their page, but a day later they called me to say one of the items was out of stock. At least its on its way to me now. The anticipation is killing me.

Well, I should say hopefully Monday, I didn't get any calls about it. But there is always that chance it'll come later. Btw, what did you get?

Does anyone have recommendations for 13th century German shoes? I was looking at one from Viking leather crafts, but from what I could see, they had slippery bottoms. I'm not going to make my own, yet, I'm not skilled or patient enough lol.

If you don't mind the ahistorical vibram sole they can attach for you at Viking Leathercrafts, they won't slip.  My viking leathercraft shoes have the rubber sole on them for that express purpose.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir James A on 2014-03-20, 01:59:02
They had it on their page, but a day later they called me to say one of the items was out of stock. At least its on its way to me now. The anticipation is killing me.

Well, I should say hopefully Monday, I didn't get any calls about it. But there is always that chance it'll come later. Btw, what did you get?

Does anyone have recommendations for 13th century German shoes? I was looking at one from Viking leather crafts, but from what I could see, they had slippery bottoms. I'm not going to make my own, yet, I'm not skilled or patient enough lol.

If you don't mind the ahistorical vibram sole they can attach for you at Viking Leathercrafts, they won't slip.  My viking leathercraft shoes have the rubber sole on them for that express purpose.

Yep, what Sir Ian said. Vibram sole was $10 extra, or lugged sole for $25.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-20, 03:22:51
Btw, what did you get?

I got the underwear package, a kyrtle, and some tight black hoes, uh... I mean, hose.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-20, 03:58:40
They had it on their page, but a day later they called me to say one of the items was out of stock. At least its on its way to me now. The anticipation is killing me.

Well, I should say hopefully Monday, I didn't get any calls about it. But there is always that chance it'll come later. Btw, what did you get?

Does anyone have recommendations for 13th century German shoes? I was looking at one from Viking leather crafts, but from what I could see, they had slippery bottoms. I'm not going to make my own, yet, I'm not skilled or patient enough lol.

If you don't mind the ahistorical vibram sole they can attach for you at Viking Leathercrafts, they won't slip.  My viking leathercraft shoes have the rubber sole on them for that express purpose.

Yep, what Sir Ian said. Vibram sole was $10 extra, or lugged sole for $25.

Honest question, what's the difference between the vibram and the lugged? Personally, I want a shoe that is historical. Because I plan to have spurs.

Btw, what did you get?

I got the underwear package, a kyrtle, and some tight black hoes, uh... I mean, hose.

Lol, wool or linen? Plus I almost got the chausses except I didn't like the color selection for the wools. So I'm making my own because its rather easy.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-20, 13:03:47
I got the wool hose. I made myself a pair of linen hose, but they don't stretch very well and they wear down quickly at the heel. Good luck with yours. It's not as easy as it seams,... I mean seems.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Edward on 2014-03-20, 13:10:49
If you don't mind the ahistorical vibram sole they can attach for you at Viking Leathercrafts, they won't slip.  My viking leathercraft shoes have the rubber sole on them for that express purpose.

Yep, what Sir Ian said. Vibram sole was $10 extra, or lugged sole for $25.

Honest question, what's the difference between the vibram and the lugged? Personally, I want a shoe that is historical. Because I plan to have spurs.

I had Vibram soles on a set of shoes I ordered from Revival Clothing a while back, and they did slip, just not as much as their plain leather soles. But it still required some caution. The lugged soles are the ones that will grip the ground like a modern shoe.

The difference is that the Vibram sole is a completely flat sole, with texture to give it some traction. It's synthetic, but from a distance won't stand out as being all that different from a flat piece of leather.

The "lugged" sole is a modern boot sole, complete with treads.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-20, 22:13:18
I got the wool hose. I made myself a pair of linen hose, but they don't stretch very well and they wear down quickly at the heel. Good luck with yours. It's not as easy as it seams,... I mean seems.

Well, I got to start somewhere right :)

If you don't mind the ahistorical vibram sole they can attach for you at Viking Leathercrafts, they won't slip.  My viking leathercraft shoes have the rubber sole on them for that express purpose.

Yep, what Sir Ian said. Vibram sole was $10 extra, or lugged sole for $25.

Honest question, what's the difference between the vibram and the lugged? Personally, I want a shoe that is historical. Because I plan to have spurs.

I had Vibram soles on a set of shoes I ordered from Revival Clothing a while back, and they did slip, just not as much as their plain leather soles. But it still required some caution. The lugged soles are the ones that will grip the ground like a modern shoe.

The difference is that the Vibram sole is a completely flat sole, with texture to give it some traction. It's synthetic, but from a distance won't stand out as being all that different from a flat piece of leather.

The "lugged" sole is a modern boot sole, complete with treads.

Any good recommendations on places to get good late 13th century shoes or boots? Also how good are the Viking leather craft ones with the Vibram soles?
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Ulrich on 2014-03-21, 06:44:36
Go for the viking leathercraft shoes, get it with the Vibram or Lugged sole. The hard slippery leather sole is not period anyway so you might as well save yourself the hassle and have shoes that dont slip. I use lugged 12th century shoes myself because the 13th and 14th century ones are too pointed for my wide feet. Lugged soles also help with chausses lacing as you can put the laces between the lugs so they're less likely to wear out.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-23, 04:51:08
Go for the viking leathercraft shoes, get it with the Vibram or Lugged sole. The hard slippery leather sole is not period anyway so you might as well save yourself the hassle and have shoes that dont slip. I use lugged 12th century shoes myself because the 13th and 14th century ones are too pointed for my wide feet. Lugged soles also help with chausses lacing as you can put the laces between the lugs so they're less likely to wear out.

Are the vibram soft and capable of accommodating the lacing from chausses and the spurs?
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2014-03-23, 12:57:50
shouldn't be an issue
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-23, 14:26:24
I have wide, flat feet and Ulrich recommends the 12 century pair. How does the buckled 13/14 century shoes fit? How true to shoe size are they? I may have to re-measure my feet.

I have a question that's a bit off topic. I'm getting Mille with integrated mittens and I plan to sow a leather mitten on too it. Should I buy a gambeson that also has an integrated mittens? To pad my hands underneath?

EDIT: It turns out that my package I believe has arrived at my other house on Friday! Hopefully I'll have it tonight or Tuesday. So it only took a week to get it(Sorry Baron). I'll post pics of me in my... Um... Underwear... I sure hope it fits!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-23, 21:54:10
Can't say I've seen any examples of gambesons with integral mittens.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-23, 22:19:38
Can't say I've seen any examples of gambesons with integral mittens.

According to the shop gambeson there are from the Morgan Bible.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-24, 13:43:12
It would appear that the gambesons with mufflers are only shown on foot soldiers. Of course, you can't see what the knights are wearing under their maille, but here is one example:
(http://www.medievaltymes.com/courtyard/images/maciejowski/leaf42/otm42ra&bdetail1.gif)
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-24, 20:02:41
I must admit, this is quite comfortable. I see nothing wrong with its quality. The cap is a tad bit small, but it was free so I have no complaints, can always make my own. I will wash it and shrink it a bit. I have 14 days to return it and recommended to wash it if to big. They say even after washed it can still be returned.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Mike W. on 2014-03-24, 20:09:33
Coifs are pretty damn easy to make. Even I, who has very little sewing skill, was able to make one in an hour. You shouldn't have a problem. Now I can't wait to get home from work and open up my package from HE that finally arrived.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Don Jorge on 2014-03-24, 20:14:47
Is that the 14th century set?
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-03-24, 20:22:31
Is that the 14th century set?

13th century, 13th century braies were longer than 14th and this shirt is based on the St. Louis one, which dates back to 1250.

Coifs are pretty damn easy to make. Even I, who has very little sewing skill, was able to make one in an hour. You shouldn't have a problem. Now I can't wait to get home from work and open up my package from HE that finally arrived.

Be sure to share and show pics!

EDIT: I forgot that points aren't included in any purchases so now it looks like I have to buy some, or just buy shoe laces and put Chapes on them. I suppose I could just order some garters and points.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-04-09, 19:31:50
I think I am going to order some 13/14th century shoes tonight from Viking leather crafts in a natural color with the vibram. I am a size 11 ish but methinks I'll get a size 12 so I have room to grow and for my chausses. Plus these will be good for my late 13th and 14th century foot wear :)
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Don Jorge on 2014-04-09, 19:53:16
Awesome...frank is great :)

Sent from my XT1080 using Tapatalk

Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-04-10, 01:28:28
Ordered it! Now I just have to ACTUALLY get to making my clothes, I simply have just not had any time with school. Also I'm still with out a permit or license(could have had either one by now) and the only way to get down to the store is if my folks drive me, but they don't have time either. I would order it but I want to physically feel and see the fabrics my self. Will probably drive down to Philly. Hopefully this spring break I'll make some cash and order a gambeson and kettle helm. Maybe even the Knightly sword from Albion's squire line products.

EDIT: Was it practiced to wear a surcoat just over the gambeson without Maille?
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Edward on 2014-04-10, 13:00:50
EDIT: Was it practiced to wear a surcoat just over the gambeson without Maille?

Sure, you can do that. It wouldn't have been done frequently, but there might be times when you don't want to fully harness up, but still want your colors.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Nate on 2014-04-11, 21:33:05
EDIT: Was it practiced to wear a surcoat just over the gambeson without Maille?

Sure, you can do that. It wouldn't have been done frequently, but there might be times when you don't want to fully harness up, but still want your colors.

But be careful, if they see you without mail. They will get their revenge.

I think it would be good for medieval political occasions
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-04-15, 21:57:14
I just bought some wool fabrics! They aren't heavily textured and to be honest I don't know how they should look or feel texture wise, but its wool either way I suppose. Time to start crafting! I think I will start with the chausses, then the tunic, then the cowl. I just hope it all looks good together in the end. Dark green chausses, tan tunic, dark brown cowl, and natural color shoes and a brown leather belt. If not I can always make other colors to match the other articles of clothing. I will be sure to give pictures of the progress. I am following a generic chausses design for I don't think there is a specific way they were made. But I'll practice on none expensive fabric first then show you guys the progress on the real thing.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-04-16, 19:36:50
My very first medieval shoes came in! That was fast! They said it may take 2 weeks because of the vibram soles but I guess they already had a pair with them on it in my size! Very comfortable, nice looking and well fitted. Sadly I don't know any medieval knots, so if anyone knows any that they wouldn't mind sharing that would be great :) I now can truly tread on my medieval path in these new shoes!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir James A on 2014-04-17, 13:17:11
Excellent!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Lord Dane on 2014-04-17, 19:54:45
Nice design.
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Martyn on 2014-05-09, 13:51:58
Looking good, Aiden!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Sir Wolf on 2014-05-10, 02:30:11
I just bought some wool fabrics! They aren't heavily textured and to be honest I don't know how they should look or feel texture wise, but its wool either way I suppose. Time to start crafting! I think I will start with the chausses, then the tunic, then the cowl. I just hope it all looks good together in the end. Dark green chausses, tan tunic, dark brown cowl, and natural color shoes and a brown leather belt. If not I can always make other colors to match the other articles of clothing. I will be sure to give pictures of the progress. I am following a generic chausses design for I don't think there is a specific way they were made. But I'll practice on none expensive fabric first then show you guys the progress on the real thing.


before you cut anything. WASH IT THAT MATERIAL! it's going to shrink.  wash it in cold and air dry it or fluff dry no heat in the dryer. if u cut something and make something first, and then wear it, then wash it, it will be to small and the seams will pucker
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-05-10, 03:27:46
I just bought some wool fabrics! They aren't heavily textured and to be honest I don't know how they should look or feel texture wise, but its wool either way I suppose. Time to start crafting! I think I will start with the chausses, then the tunic, then the cowl. I just hope it all looks good together in the end. Dark green chausses, tan tunic, dark brown cowl, and natural color shoes and a brown leather belt. If not I can always make other colors to match the other articles of clothing. I will be sure to give pictures of the progress. I am following a generic chausses design for I don't think there is a specific way they were made. But I'll practice on none expensive fabric first then show you guys the progress on the real thing.


before you cut anything. WASH IT THAT MATERIAL! it's going to shrink.  wash it in cold and air dry it or fluff dry no heat in the dryer. if u cut something and make something first, and then wear it, then wash it, it will be to small and the seams will pucker

Thanks for the heads up! I didn't even consider that. Maybe it has been a good thing I haven't been able to get started yet do to school work, would have not washed it and would have used polyester thread instead of linen thread. I sure hope I get this done soon, that way I can get onto, wait for it... Another project!
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Thorsteinn on 2014-05-10, 05:31:04
When those shoes die (and it may take a while) go for completely flat bottom shoes. It will do wonders for your sword form. :)
Title: Re: Getting Into My Basics
Post by: Aiden of Oreland on 2014-05-10, 17:28:33
When those shoes die (and it may take a while) go for completely flat bottom shoes. It will do wonders for your sword form. :)

Already took the first step by spilling oil on them when cleaning my kettle helm  :P I will definitely consider that when I get into HEMA next summer. Plus the only sword form I know is the one from Kingdom of Heaven lol I can also by a pair before then because these were only, like, $80. The only sad part is that they have slippery bottoms, completely inaccurate, so I had to get Vibram sole add on. But it is hard to notice anyway so it really doesn't matter.