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How to clean rust from armor
Sir William:
Yea...I just couldn't justify getting an aluminum riveted hauberk. I imagine that, as my knees start to go, I'll change my mind on that one.
Sir Wolf:
ah see i love mild steel. i don't mind the cleaning it takes
Sir Edward:
One problem with aluminum mail to keep in mind is that it comes apart. I haven't had problems with my hauberk, since I made it out of a fairly heavy gauge (it's 14g electric-fence wire, so it's fairly stiff for aluminum), and I edged it all the way around with steel links. Aluminum is a supremely bad idea for chausses, since just the act of walking will tear the knees apart. You need steel here. A riveted aluminum hauberk can develop issues over time if it's not strong enough, but it can be perfectly serviceable if it is.
Sir Ulrich:
I wouldn't want aluminium mail armor, I heard bad stories about it coming apart and crap. Galvanized butted mail is way too heavy for me, as i've worn it before in a shop that sold it. Don't care much for the grey finish too...
Icefalcones mail is what appeals to me most, only issue is it doesn't have the "solid rings" that I wish it had. My only issue with cleaning the rust off of it would be the blackened finish would come off... Unless there's a way to stop that from happening or re-blackening it. Don't care much for "shiny new" armour look... I actually like things to look to some degree "worn". I'll just let my helmet get more "worn" looking and then do the peanut oil thing next summer heh.
Sir Brian:
--- Quote from: Sir Wolf on 2010-09-28, 19:42:50 ---ah see i love mild steel. i don't mind the cleaning it takes
--- End quote ---
Ditto for me as well, besides cleaning your armor is a good way to inspect it for any potential problems with straps, loose rivets, etc. ;)
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