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Adding faulds

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Sir Edward:

That's a pretty slick idea. I can't wait to see how it turns out.

Allan Senefelder:
Bill, I would recommend heat blueing over chemical blueing ( this is just a personal preference ). Chemical blueing can be a bit more finicky in getting to " blue" sometimes comming out more black. It can achieve very nice results but can require some practice. I just use a propane torch ( with MAPP gas, it burns hotter so heats quicker). The surface needs to be clean an shiney ( not mirror, we do a four step wire cup polish and it works fine) and I would reccomend using a new pair of gloves that does nothing but handle the cleaned metal. Fire up the torch and heat, you'll see the temper come out ( yellow down to deep purple/blue) the front edge of which will act as your guid to heat. It will be about an inch and a half in front of your flame so its kind of like pushing the color in front of the flame. The only other thing you need is a no buring surface to do it on, even a concrete floor will work, just make sure its clean swept as the flame moves air around can kick up dust, this dust can settle on the heated surface causing dark spots.

Das Bill:
Hi Allen,
Its a good idea, but I just don't have the workspace or tools to do that, unfortunately. But to be honest, cold chemical blueing will be fine for this particular harness. Its more for cosmetic purposes than durability, as the harness really won't see heavy use. It will get passed around occassionally, and be worn for some demos here and there (though the vast majority of my demos don't require armour, so even that is very occassional).

I've done lots of cold blueing before, and I've been able to get pretty good results.

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